The Snowlady Chronicles

Paris!

Sunday August 25,2019

Charles De Gaulle Airport, France

Another Beautiful Morning

 

After Sandra took off on her 1200km challenge, I took an uber to Paris to spend 2.5 days there monitoring Sandra's progress while in Paris.  Debated whether to stay in Clairfountaine or not, and decided after talking to Parisians, it would be better for me to be in Paris because a) don't have a car b) more trains to the control points that I can get to if need be and c) its Paris!.   And who said Paris in August is boring??  I thoroughly enjoyed staying in the middle of Paris in August because there were not many crowds.  Yes, many restaurants and small boutiques were closed and Louvre is still impossible to get a ticket at the same day, but there were still many things to do.  Unfortunately, one of the museums I really wanted to go to - Carnavalet- which was highly recommended by my friends who know Paris very well, was closed for renovation.  

I arrived Sunday evening, so ended up getting room services and checking work email, and started tracking Sandra the first night.  The next day, woke up early and met a work colleague for a breakfast meeting near Sacre Couer.  It was a beautiful and slightly chilly morning.  Unfortunately, I could not get my French Omelet as the chef of the brasserie was on vacation so just had a typical French breakfast of a baguette with cafe au last.  After the breakfast, I walked the 3 km or so to Musee Cluny, which was on my list to see the infamous Lady and the Unicorn tapestry.  I am so glad I saw it,  it was beautiful and whimsical.  I don't know how long it took to make the tapestries but it is considered one of the greatest works of art in the Middle Ages in Europe.  It is definitely worth seeing.  

Sacre Couer

Signts from the walk I took from Sacre Couer to Musee Cluny on the left bank.  Meat being delivered

The architecture in Paris is AMAZING!!  I've been here many times and never get tired of it

Musee de Cluny is housed where the old Roman baths were.  The baths were surprising in good shape when discovered so they built a museum around it.  I'm always amazed how sophisticated the culture was during those times.

Some wall stone carvings that are well preserved in the baths

Arguably the most famous Lady and the Unicorn tapestry. There are six that depict taste, hearing, sight, smell and touch.  This one is about touch and love.  I loved this one

Details of the tapestry.  the main of the unicorn looked so pillowy, soft and real.  All this was done by hand!

After spending obout 2.5 hours in the museum, I went to the famous Duex Magots Brasserie where Hemmingway used to hand out.  Had their special chicken for lunch which did not disappoint.  I then stopped at Le Grand Epicerie which is one of my favorite places in Paris to shop for food and wine and then walked back to the hotel.  I did over 20000 steps and about 10 miles that day.  Paris is definitely a city to be explored by foot.  

Walking back from the Le Grand Epicerie, I walked by Place de la Concorde

and Madeleine where my hotel is located

Ended the day with Chateau Beycheville St Julien which was my Dad's favorite

Day 2 started with a nice breakfast at the hotel with delicious coffee.  As the Carnavalet was closed decided to go to the Picasso Museum which was just renovated and recommended by Sandra.  In the meantime, Sandra was making good time with bike race.  She just did about 300 km through the night.  They had a special exhibit with Alexander Calder - the American sculptor - known for his kinetic mobiles.  The Picasso- Calder exhibit got rave reviews and is a must see exhibit if you are in Paris this month and next.  I thoroughly enjoyed the exhibit very much.  Apparently both Calder and Picasso were good friends and had tremendous respect for each other. 

Calder's whimsical mobile of Josephine Baker

Picasso's portrait of Francoise Gilot - I had the fortune of meeting her in the late 90s.  Very nice and charming lady

And of Dora Maar

I liked this painting of the South of France.  Liked the blue hues

The Garden at Musee Picasso.  I sat here for about 30 minutes.  Very relaxing

Then I did the long walk back to the hotel, but stopped at Brasserie Vivienne located on Rue Petit Champs Elysees, where I had a delicious and fresh green bean salad and pasta with truffles in a creme source (so rich!).

Chateau Beycheville from 120 euros to 2000 euros!

French Oysters at Le Grand Epicerie

The next day, before heading out to Clairfountaine, I walk along the Champs Elysees and with the goal of going to Le Grand Epicerie again to buy a gourmet prepared food to celebrate Sandra's accomplishment.  By now she completed over 600km and is in good shape.  Had major challenges the first 1/3 of the ride due to strong headwinds but she persevered!

Walking the Champs Elysees

Crossing to the bridge to the left bank

Got a great view of the Eiffel tower

While looking for a place to have a late lunch, I found an alleyway where Michelin star chefs have an outposts.  I went to Allenotheque

and had a fabulous lunch of steak and a strawberry melba for dessert, with a niche glass of bordeaux.

Headed back to the hotel, got organized and then took an uber to Clairfountaine.  Sandra is on track to finish the race tomorrow morning, so looking forward to celebrating her accomplishment!!

Paris-Brest-Paris - a 1200km (750miles) Endurance Event for Cyclists

August 22, 2019

Clairfountaine-en-Yvelines

Beautiful Summer Day

 

My BFF and travel buddy Sandra decided to the the infamous Paris-Brest-Paris 1200km endurance event for cyclists.  It's the oldest long distance cycling event (first one in 1891) in the world and takes place every 4 years.  Sandra spent 2+years preparing where she had to qualify to be in the event.  It meant doing a 200km, 400km and 600km race within a year.  I'm hear in the outskirts of Paris to cheer here on.  And I'm happy to say she got it done in 86 hours and 30 minutes and because she completed it before the allocated 90 hours, she got a medal!  What a feat!!  I'm in such awe of her especially her determination.  She truly is a role model for many.  

So I arrived on a Saturday before the race.  Took a bus to Gare Montparnasse and then the train to Rambouillet where the race starts.  Had trouble at the beginning to find the "right" train tracks but then saw a lot (like 100 or so ) cyclists so just followed them.  The 35 minute train ride ended up taking about an hour because along the way , we picked up more, more to the point where I thought no more can fit in the train.  Getting off the train was also difficult as there was a traffic jam of cyclists all getting off the train.  I can't imagine what the residents of Rambouillet were thinking given its the first time the race will start in their town. 

Sandra picked me up, we stopped at the grocery store to do some shopping and then got to her B&B in Clairfountaine de Yvelines which is a converted nunnery that is now an "apartment" for artists but just for this week, the rooms are rented to cyclists participating in the race.  It was a cold and rainy day, but first thing we had to do was get her bike checked and then get her registered. The whole process unfortunately, took longer than expected, but at least we got it done in 3 hours.  We were both freezing when we got back, so we dried our clothes, relaxed a bit and then decided to go to a very nice wine bar in a small town called Dourdan, where we had wonderful wine and a great dinner.  We then had an early night as Sandra needed to get as much rest as possible before her start which was at 630pm on Sunday.

The next day, we basically relaxed and Sandra did last minute preparation for the ride.  A lot of nervous energy was in the air.  We got to the starting sight 3 hours early, as we got a ride from Sandra's friend which worked out so I could drop off my bags and a nearby hotel and catch an uber to Paris. I was planning on spending a few days in Paris playing tourist while Sandra was on the road.  Thought it would work better given there were more trains to the main towns she was going to cycle through in the case of emergency, and more convenient for me given I don't have a car.  

Then very quickly, on a sunny warm evening , it was time for Sandra to take off.  She did very well the first 1/3, then had a bit of tough going due to very strong headwinds, but after a rest, recovered mentally and physically, and then there was no stopping of her and she made it well within the 90 hour limit.  And on first try!  I got back from Paris to Clairfontaine Wednesday afternoon with food from the infamous Le Grande Epicerie in Paris so that there will be plenty to eat when she got back on Thursday morning. What an accomplishment!  We celebrated with Champagne, wine and food when she got back.   Today is going to be a super relaxing day with lots of sleep and eating.  Sandra is so amazing and inspirational.

The line to get the bikes checked

Bike check and registration done

And a guy photobombs!

Excellent dinner at the wine bar in Dourdan.  We had quite a few glasses :))

 

The tuna mouse appetizer

Baked ham (made an exception) main course.  They only have one appetizer and one main course on the menu that changes daily

Getting ready for the ride.  Sandra ran into her friend Stacy

Me and Sandra before the race.  

And there she goes!

Finished at 86 hours and 30 minutes!!

Recovery food for the day

Valparaiso and Vina del Mar - Last Day of the Chile, Bolivia vacation

August20, 2019

Paris, France

Glorious Summer Day

 

Note: This Post is about our last day of our Chile and Bolivia summer vacation which took place in July of 2018.

 

We decided to spend that last 2 nites and 3 days in Santiago Chile.  Both Sandra and I have been here before so the objective was to eat, buy souvenirs and do a day trip to Valparaiso as neither of us have been there.  Since we got to our hotel late at night, we just went to the hotel bar and shared a pizza and a bottle of Chilean wine and had an early night.  The next day we slept in and got our subway passes so we can explore some artisan shops to do some souvenir hunting.  First place we went was like a flea market in the middle of the city.  We both did not like the vibe or quality.  The second place we went was a small store owned by a woman near the universities.  We loved her shop!  But instead of buying up the store, we decided to go to lunch first and then explore an artisan village outside the town and then decide if we should go back to the small shop.  For lunch, we went to the Central Market in town which is basically the fish market.  We went there years ago and really enjoyed the fish there.  The concierge warned us that she is not a fan but we did not listen to her and went to Donde Augusto which is where we went before and ranked highest.  Disappointing!! Overcooked and salty fish.  We were ready to drink a gallon of water after the lunch as it was so salty!

From there we tried to find the subway station but got lost.  Fortunately, a lady offered to help and showed us the way to the subway station.  Once there we knew where to go - the artisan village - so we were set.  I have to say the subways in Santiago are clean and efficient.  Once we got to the village , we found many things we liked.  I bought a beautiful Lapiz Lazuli necklace as a Xmas gift for my BFF Nicky.  Lapiz Lazuli is a local blue stone from Chile and the store I went to was highly recommended for the quality.  Once we got what we wanted, it was off to the little shop owned by a lady we liked.  There we bought ALOT!! LoL!  She truly had great stuff.  We then had a light dinner by the hotel and called it a day as we had a busy next day.

For the next day - the day we leave to go home - we booked a private tour of Valparaiso and what a tour!!!  Our guide was FABULOUS!  Not only did we go to Valparaiso but also Vina del Mar for wine tasting and a lunch at a winery, saw the ocean and a chi-chi neighborhood where the wealthy have weekend homes and he fit in a wine tour at a winery where the wines we made in traditional ceramic pots.  They got us to the airport with 3 hours to spare to catch our flight1  What a great way to end a great vacation.

Home in Valparaiso

Valparaiso is a prat city and was home to the famous writer Pablo Neruda.  Its known as Little San Francisco  and is a World Heritage Site.  The opening of the Panama Canal saw the demise of Valparaiso but now, its a mecca for artists.

Its the original city that started the "graffiti" wave

Look at this!  These are steps

After going up and down the alleys of Valparaiso and buying artwork - yes we continued shopping even though our suitcases were full, we were off to the coast, where the rich have their summer homes.  I have to tell you the beaches were immaculate, and the water was sea through.  If it were summer, I would have gone in the water for a swim

Next stop was a fancy winery for lunch, planned by our tour guide.  It was fabulous

He also squeezed a wine tasting at a unique winery where wines we're made in traditional clay pots. And the wines were pretty good!

We then rushed back to the airport with full stomachs and a bit of a buzz given we had copious amounts of wine for lunch and during the unexpected stop at another winery for wine tasting.  Great way to end a great vacation with BFF Sandra.  Can't wait for the next one. 

Last Day in Bolivia

Sunday August 11, 2019

New York, NY

Beautiful Sunny Day

 

July 29,2018: Last day exploring the Andes in Bolivia.  Now that we are at about 8000 ft, I recovered from altitude sickness and felt great!  On our last day,  we explored some stone sculptures created by winds, went to another lake and a hidden one which required a short hike and a scary hike (which I did not do) to see a gorge.  We then got to the border of Chile again, found our Chilean driver, who drove us to the airport so we can catch our flight to Santiago.  What a great time we had in Bolivia.  And what a beautiful country.  Would love to go back again and this time explore Lake Titicaca.

One of the many rock sculptures we explored

And of course, llama's 

Another beautiful lake 

We then took a hike to discover a hidden lake

And had our last lunch at this beautiful and isolated place

Our last stop was to see a gorge.  It was so windy that I decided not to do the hike.  Sandra went part of the way.  Way too scary for me.

Bolivia Day 2, 3: Salar de Uyuni

Sunday August 4, 2019

UES New York, NY

Hot!

The second day in Bolivia was basically driving to get to Salar De Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the world and at 12000 ft.  It was a  pretty smooth but long drive.  On the way we stopped at another gorgeous lake at about 3000meters.  Amazing how many lakes there are at the Bolivian Andes.

We stopped at a little town to have lunch but the altitude started getting to me that I could barely eat.  So started popping aspirin and drinking copious amounts of coca tea.

And alas, we enter the salt flats - Salarying de Uyuni.  Since we were there in winter, did not get to see much water on the salt flat.  But massive!

First stop was a cactus island in the middle of the salt flat.  Sandra walked to the top, I did not as it was steep and still was feeling off due to the altitude

Amazes me how our driver knows which way to go as there are no roads/signs on the salt flats

Finally, we arrived at our hotel and as it was lower than 4000 meters, I started feeling better.  We also had a chance to see the full moon from our hotel!

And our neighbors the llamas, including a baby one with the mother

Before heading back out to the salt flats. we visited the local church which was nice.

Sandra with our driver and guide

Miles and miles of salt

Although we could not see the infamous reflection because we were there at dry season, we were able to take the infamous photos "perspective" photos!  

Then we further went down in altitude to the town of Uyuni where we shopped for some beautiful knitwear and woolen gifts and also visited the train cemetery. Trains were used during the peak of the mining era.  Sadly, mining declined due to the supply of minerals disappearing due to over mining, thus the trains were left at Uyuni and became a "graveyard"

On our way to our next hotel, we stopped at a small town and happened upon a parade and celebration.  Not sure what is was for but it was colorful and the town was all out dancing.

We made it in time for dinner at our hotel embedded in a rock.  By now, I'm feeling much better so was able to eat.  Local kids entertained us and Sandra and I were able to try a bottle of Bolivian wine.  We agreed we weren't going to bring one home.  LoL!  I finally had a good nights sleep ready for our last day in Bolivia

Bolivia Day One: July 26, 2018

January 5, 2019

New York NY

Rainy and Damp

After a fabulous time in Atacama, it was time for us to move to our next destination - the Bolivian Andes.  It was quite an adventure getting there as the usual pass was closed due to snow so we had to go the "long way".  It was a beautiful ride though through the Chilean side of the Andes into Bolivia.  And quite a change.  Once we got through (immigration - took about an hour), we got to the Bolivian side.  And transferred to a new 4 wheel drive SUV with a Bolivian driver and guide.  Both are fabulous but we quickly went from paved roads to off roading.  For the next few days, we will not see a single paved road while driving through the Andes.  Bolivia is beautiful but is landlocked so has many economic disadvantages.  However, the discovery of natural gas has raised optimism within the country.  Our guide speaks fluent English, French and Spanish and was educated in Switzerland.  Both our guide and driver were terrific.

Our first day in the country was learning about the terrain and visiting the most famous lakes.  I have to say it was a very special and unforgettable experience - mostly in a good way but also a bad way in that I had a bout of altitude sickness given we were hovering around 4800 meters the whole day and night.  Sleeping at our hotel was tough in that I had major dehydration, nightmares, headaches and it was cold!!But I would do it again as it was really spectacular.

On our way to Bolivia.  we took a photo with our Chiliean driver as arrived at the highest point of the pass.  (Still in Chile)

Entering Bolivia.  We will not see a paved road for the next 3 days

First impression of Bolivia - beautiful!

Everywhere you can find a moss like growth but it is as hard as a rock.  Its a plant and grows on rocks in the Andes.  Apparently its a cousin to the parsley.

Lakes of the Andes was our theme for our first day in Bolivia.  Our first lake was the "no name" lake.  It was beautiful so found it weird it had no name but them more lakes were to come

The second lake was one of the most majestic sceneries I've ever scene in my life.  Its a Glacial Lake where many of the flamingos of the Andes hang out.  I was mesmerized.  The pictures do not do it justice.

After a nice picnic lunch, it was time for us to visit our next lake which was Laguna Verde.  And it was green! But below is a photo of the "roads" we took to get to our location.

And there were more flamingos!

Our next stop was to the Laguna Colorado which is the red lake.  But on the way we stopped by to enjoy rock sculptures created by nature

We posed next to it to show how tall it is

I have no idea how our driver figured out where we were going as there are no signs and no roads

And here is the Laguna Colorado

After our last lake it was time to go to our hotel at 4800 meters.  I was feeling fine until it was time to go to bed...

Here we are at 4800 meters.  We were all smiles and happy until the altitude hit us.  Really looked forward the next day to go down in altitude.  And our next stop - Uyuni!  Another place from my bucket list

 

Day 4: San Pedro de Atacama

January 1, 2019

New York NY

Happy New Year!

 Our last full day(July 25) in Atacama was spent at 4500 meters.  We tried to go to the geysers (El Tatio) but the pass was still closed.  We did see some steam from afar thought.  Our guide did a great job getting us acclimated as 4500 meters is pretty high.  We did walk slower and even getting into our 4 wheel drive SUV made us huff and puff.  But we were comfortable enough to enjoy the beautiful scenery.  Although it would have been nice to see the geysers, it was wonderful to have the whole place to ourselves.

The Andes

We stopped at this small town.  We "hiked" to the church.  It should have took us 5 min but took us about 20min due to the altitude.

Vicunas!

We had a wonderful picnic lunch but had to eat quickly as everything started freezing at 4500meters... including the wine!

More Vicunas

Relaxing with a good book to call it the night as tomorrow we are off to Bolivia!

Day 3 - San Pedro de Atacama

January 1, 2019

New York NY

Happy New Year!

Since we are in Atacama during the winter (July 23) , we found that many of the mountain passes are closed due to snow storms.  So our wonderful guides had to adjust.  So today, we started the day with a hike (at 10000ft) to a hot spring, jumped in the hot spring then had a picnic lunch.  Got back to the hotel to rest a bit and then we were off to Rainbow Valley where Sandra enjoyed a downhill mountain biking tour while I did a walk about in the area and took photos.  This place is amazing!

Our hike to the hot spring.  It was not easy as I did not have hiking boots - big mistake!

Wild donkeys

We hiked

And hiked.  

Changed quickly into our bathing suit and jumped in the hot spring and then out and quickly changed as it was cold!!  But had a great picnic lunch after the hike and dip in the hot spring.  One kid though had major altitude sickness so our guides helped the parents and got him to lower altitude quickly.  Thank god, our guides acclimated us well!

Then we were off to Rainbow Valley where Sandra did a downhill with our guide.

To end the day, we enjoyed art made in 2400 BC

Day2 - San Pedro de Atacama

January 1, 2019

New York, New York

Happy New Year!

 While going thru my blog during the end of the year, I realized I did not finish my travel blog for the fabulous birthday trip to Atacama and Bolivia that Sandra and I took during the summer (but it was winter in Atacama and Bolivia!).  Our first full day in Atacama started with a fabulous breakfast at our luxurious hotel Awasi and then to our morning excursion to the Valley of the Moon where nature makes sculptures through wind and water.  However, parts of the Valley of the Moon are the driest place on earth where they have not had a single rain drop in over 100 years!  The Mars Rover was tested here because it was thought the terrain is similar to Mars.  It definitely was dry but oh the scenery..  exquisite.

After another gourmet lunch, we went on our afternoon private tour of Los Flamencos Natural Reserve where there are 2 salt flats with flamingos that we visiting.  I had no idea flamingos can live is such cold weather.  The flamingos here are native to Chile and are quite cute.  They were the the highlights of the day but the sunset was also spectacular.

After a busy day, we had yet another gourmet meal, we relaxed in the evening to get enough rest for our next excursions.

Valley of the Moon

Exploring a cave

the salt creates some beautiful work in the rocks

On our way to the Natural Reserve for Flamingos we saw the oldest tree in Atacama

And stopped by a small town to do some shopping (we bought hand made scarves)

And saw a cute llama

The salt flats of the Natural reserve of Flamingos

Purpose of the Visit - Legacy Museum and the Memorial to Victims of Lynching

 Saturday November 3 2018

New York, NY

Blustery Fall Weather

 

Besides seeing Billy, one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Birmingham was for us to take a road trip to Montgomery to visit the newly opened Memorial to Victims of Lynching.  After the Civil War and until the Civil Rights Act, many blacks were lynched by mobs in the South.  The somber yet beautiful memorial was built so that those that died from this horrible death are not forgotten.  It was pretty sobering to see the names.  Most were lynched for no reason but bigotry, hatred and racism.  Every American needs to visit this place.  Especially those that still want the Confederate Flag.

Every hanging "box" had the name of the county and State, with the names of the people who were lynched.  Some names were unknown.  Billy first learned that lynching took place in Tuscaloosa Alabama, home to University of Alabama

 After the Memorial we went to the Legacy Museum to learn about slavery but also injustice to minorities that continues to happen to this day.  No pictures were allowed so no photos but it was impressive and a great learning experience.  However, both Billy and I were drained emotionally after the visit.  So we took a walk to the Alabama river which was nice but empty!  It seems no one walks around the town whether in Montgomery or Birmingham.

 On the way back to Birmingham, we decided to stop by a Southern Barbecue Joint recommended by Zagat - The K&J Rib Shack, which really is a shack.  I had the best black eyed peas, fried okra and collard greens ever.  And the ribs were pretty good to!  Delicious but messy..

We then headed back to Birmingham, rested, and then headed to go eat again.  First we decided to go to a speakeasy in the Avondale section of Birmingham only to find it closed for a private event.  Avondale supposedly is an up and coming area but literally there were only 3 shops at a corner.  So we took an uber to where we had dinner reservation and Hot and Hot Fish Club.  We found an empty Irish bar and had a drink before we headed to dinner.  Hot and Hot Fish Club was OK.  They were out of many things which was disappointing.  Billy and I thought Highlands Bar and Grill was much better.

                                                           The Vulcan!  We saw it while walking to the Irish bar

                                                             Last night so ordered a nice Bordeaxu 

                                                             The dessert was great - persimmon cake

                                                             My steak was OK

The next day we went to Galley and Garden (same restaurant area as Hot and Hot Fish and Highlands Bar and Grill) for a Southern brunch.  Well, this place did not disappoint.  We had the best tomato salad and shrimp and grits.  Great way to end our weekend together in Birmingham!