Saturday October 2, 2010
Malibu, California
Sun and a Surprise Thunderstorm
Meant to post this earlier but got very busy at work so am posting 2 weeks late. Anyhow, after a wonderful visit to Brussels, I left for a weekend in Amsterdam. I took the TGV on Friday the 17th in the morning and arrived mid morning and checked into the Pulitzer Hotel. Originally, I planned to hit the town with my BFF, Chris but work got so busy that she could not make it. So I explored it on my own and had a great time. I was fortunate because the weather cooperated albeit it was very cool so I wore the only fleece that I brought for the trip the whole weekend.
As I arrived the day before Yom Kippur, I decided to explore the Jewish Heritage of Netherlands. I thought about first going to the Anne Frank house, but decided to go on Saturday as I wanted to spend a lot of time there. It turns out I should have visited on Friday as it closed for Yom Kippur! I should've known better.
Anyhow, after checking in, unpacking and a very good cappucino at the Hotel Pulitzer, I decided to take a walk toward the Hermitage with stops at the Jewish Museum and the Portuguese Synagogue.
The view across the lobby of the Hotel Pulitzer: The Hotel Pulitzer is a traditional Dutch "apartment" building converted to a hotel. The rooms are small but quaint with a great bath tub. It is located in the Jordaan district which is quite, elegant and happens to be where my favorite restaurant Bordewijk is located.
First stop was the Dam, which is the center of Old Amsterdam. A lot of remodeling being done on the buildings. I stopped at the infamous "BeeHive" department store (the Neiman Marcus of Netherlands) looking for my perfume Fracas. Well, didn't have it. Said it is hard to find and it is.
I then walked along one of the main streets and ran into the flower market: The flower market from behind.
One of these days, I'm going to visit Amsterdam during the Tulip season. I find the flower market to be touristy but at the same time, found it very tempting to try and start a garden again when I get back home.
There are many reminders that the sea plays an important role to the culture and history of The Netherlands. I found this lamp post while crossing one of the many bridges.
I passed the Amstel River which runs through Amsterdam.
I found my way to the Jewish Museum which happens to be next door to the Hermitage. I visited the synagogue which is beautiful but unfortunately no photos allowed. Secure was tight, where I had to go through an x-ray machine. Even in The Netherlands, hate crime against the Jews does exist. I decided to have lunch at the cafeteria which was recommended by Karyn and also had a special Jewish dessert from Amsterdam - Gemberbolus - which is this yummy gingery pastry.
Gemberbolus
I then went to visit the Portuguese Synagogue which was CLOSED!! So bummed! They closed early for the holiday. The synagogue is under restoration. But even from the outside it is interesting as you see the walls are warped in this very old synagogue
Portuguese Synagogue
I then went to the Hermitage to see a fabulous exhibition of the Fauvism painters. The exhibition was called "Matisse to Malivich" where 75 paintings were chosen from the Hermitage in St Petersburg. I was not allowed to take photos but it was amazing. Made me really want to do a trip to St. Petersburg.
After thoroughly enjoying the museum, I slowly walked back to the hotel where I stopped at a cheese shop to get some aged Gouda, bread and a nice Pinot to enjoy in the hotel for dinner.
I walked through many very charming streets. Here's one of them that is right by the hotel:
The next day, Saturday, I got up early and had breakfast at the hotel. It was an amazing breakfast but had I known I had to pay 30 Euros for it, I would have eaten elsewhere. Anyhow, got loaded with Vitamin C from a very good orange juice and another very very good cappucino, it was time to head out and explore more of Amsterdam. My plan for the day was to start at Ann Frank's House which I've been to before but wanted to go again, then visit the Old Church and Hidden Church in the Red Light District, stop at the famous design institution Droog, have Indonesian food for lunch at Kantjil, walk back to the hotel and then take the Hotel Pulitzer boat ride thru the canals in the early evening.
The first stop was Ann Frank's house. Well, as I mentioned earlier, it was closed for Yom Kippur. I thought at least the bookstore would be open but it too was closed. Sadly the 180 year old Chestnut Tree that Ann Frank referred to many times in her diary fell over during a fierce storm this August. I've heard the city of Amsterdam will replace the tree with one of its saplings. If ever in Amsterdam and only have time for one place to visit, Ann Frank's house is where you should go.
Ann Frank
I then walked through the DAM again and headed towards the Red Light District looking for the two churches. While walking the streets, I notices this crooked building. It's hard to tell from the photo but it's the building with the small evergreen trees adorning the windows.
While walking towards the Red Light District, I noticed a trio of swans heading the same way.
And they led me to the Old Church. It's a pretty magnificent church in the middle of the Red Light District. It was built in the early 1300 and nearly 15 generations of Amsterdam citizens have renovated the church over the years.
I admire The Netherlands for their tolerance and their open minds. But visiting the Red Light District has never been something I cared doing. So this is the first time I've been there and at around 1030am. I was surprised how clean and quaint the neighborhood is. It is so odd have "brothel" houses, weed restaurants right by a church.
In 2007, Belle, a statue honoring all the prostitutes of the world was installed in front of the church.
My next stop was the Hidden Church called "Our Lord in the Attic". At is is Hidden. I had to go into several "coffee shops" smelling of marijuana and one S&M bar (I had no idea!) to ask for directions as those were the only places open. Anyhow, found it. Unfortunately, it too was going through restoration so the church itself was mostly under construction. In the 1600s, Catholicism was banned but many of the Protestants looked the other way as people constructed churches in the rooftops of their buildings. This church is the only hidden church of its kind left. So it is definitely interesting to visit. Here are some photos of the church.
Love the Delft tile work in the kitchen.
The church in the attic which is under construction.
I then decided to walk towards Rembrandt's house to get to the Droog, the next stop. While walking, I found another crooked building.
I love this neighborhood by the Red Light District. Very quaint but wondered if the houses along the canal flood at times.
I then accidentally find Chinatown. It was the cutest Chinatown I've ever been too.
I followed a sign to a market and again saw these ghastly things which I saw yesterday in every park I walked through. I had no idea what they were used for until I saw the gentleman below.
I can't remember the name of this church but a farmer's market was taking place. Cheese, bread and even home spun yarn was on sale.
I continued my walk toward the Droog but stopped to take this picture of the New Church. So Amsterdam!
And then after several more canal crossings, I found Droog.
LUV this place
I started to get hungry so headed towards Spui, which is where Kantjil, the Indonesian place is located. And it happens to be located across the street from "Five Flies" which opened in 1939 and is housed in five 17th century buildings. I've been there before (my boss took me there) and remember the butter they served for the bread was the BEST butter ever!
Got my fill of some Indonesian food: Indonesian Rice Bowl
And started walking back to the hotel where I went thru a funky area of town.
After a nice one hour long nap, it was time for the boat cruise. This cruise is only for Hotel Pulitzer guests and its on the boat the "Tourist" which was built in 1909 to take VIPs from their hotel to parties, dinners, etc. I was joined by a lovely Chinese couple and some folks from New York! It was fun. Jackson and I texted each other on the boat. I even sent him a video of the boat ride to his mother's iphone. Pretty cool!
The boat "Tourist" parked in front of the hotel.
First thing the captain pointed out was to notice these gigantic hooks to hoist furniture to the upper floors of the buildings.
Views from the boat cruise:
The South Sea
Moon
We went by many houseboats and charming neighborhoods. If I were to visit Amsterdam for the first time, a boat ride would be the first thing I do as you get a good overview of the city.
For my last evening, I hung out at the bar, had 2 glasses of wine and finished the book I was reading. Although the first week was very tough due to insomnia and a crazy work schedule, it ended up being a fabulous trip. The highlight was definitely seeing Karyn and Peter. But enjoying Amsterdam for the first time at a relaxing pace was very enjoyable too. I'm hoping I get to go again next year and if I do, I think I want to explore some of the other towns in The Netherlands.