Friday, Feb 08, 2013
Hot (but tolerable) with occasional massive downpours
Singapore
When I took the assingment to Japan, I promised myself I'll try and get away from Tokyo at least once per quarter to re-charge. So while sick during the New Years holiday's I booked myself to a short trip to Singapore, a country I have not been too in over 25+ years! Every expat in Tokyo I know loves Singapore and goes there for an escape. So I thought why not? And while at it, learn how to cook some Malay and Peranakan food.
The flight from Tokyo was uneventful, except that I could not find my driver so ended up taking a regular taxi instead. However, when I checked in at the Intercontinental, they told me that the driver was waiting at the airport. So a bit of confusion, with a profusely apologetic concierge who ended up sending me flowers, a bottle of wine, chocolates, and fruit as an apology. Now that is what customer service is all about!
Got to bed around 3am and got up at 8am just in time to get ready for the city tour with my private guide. Hired a private guide cuz couldn't be bothered doing the tourist thingy myself. It turns out to be the best as I had a car and was able to do alot within 4 hours.
First stop was the Singapore City Gallery. I would have never gone there if I were on my own. I'm so glad my guide recommended it. Basically, it a gallery showcasing life size models of the city's architecture, including future plans. Let me tell you, this city/country has ambitious plans. It seems the city/country has doubled in size since I was last there due to land reclamation. Definitely worth visiting.
Next stop was The Gardens by the Bay. Last time I was in Singapore, the area was part of the sea. Today it's a beautiful garden. But we did not go there for the garden but to get a good view of the Marina Sands area. It was quite impressive! However, maybe its me, but I'm really not interested in going to the top of Marina Sands Bay to look at the pool. Anyhoo, the views were amazing and I am impressed how well the Singaporean govt have done the urban planning.
Because its Lunar New Years Weekend, all throughout the city you see local tangerine trees decorated with wishes.
Year of the Snake!
Fab view of the Marina Bay Sands
Modern Art at the Garden: Plants/vines are in process of covering the sculpture
Next stop was one of Singapore's main water treatment plants. Yes, you read it write. My guide took me here again for the views. It is from here, I saw the view of Singapore I remember. But I did learn some amazing things. Singapore is taking salt water, treating it, and flowing it back to the Singapore river for drinking and ecology. In addition, just like in Holland, they have a sophisticated water pumping system so although quite scary, during the tsunami caused by the earthquke in Indonesia, they did not experience any flooding. And the views! Pretty cool.
The view of Singapore I remember, lots of ships docked in the sea which is a reminder how important the harbor is for trade.
View from the water treatment plant: Marina Bay Sands and the Garden's by the Bay building
Our next stop was Chinatown. Singapore is an amazing country where really, their documented history begins during colonialism - modern Singapore. The name Singapore (Singapora) means Lion City, where it is thought a Prince thought he saw a lion while discovering the land thus called it Singapora. But what makes Singapore's history interesting is how people from many different cultures blended and lived peacefully together on this small island. The Chinese were one of the ethnic group that migrated to Singapore starting in the 1800s and I believe today are still the largest ethnic group. So going to Chinatown was interesting, especially as the Lunar New Year is coming up on Sunday. Loved the place and am thinking of going to the night market tomorrow night.
But the first building I saw was a Mosque - the Masjid Jamae Mosque. Why in Chinatown? It was built in the early 1800s as the Tamil Muslims from India moved to Singapore for trading. So in other words, the Mosque was built prior to the growth of Chinatown. I could not go in as it was for men only, but would have loved to see the interior.
Masjid Jamae Mosque on Mosque Street, Chinatown, Singapore
We walked through the day market of Chinatown. Most of the places were bustling with New Years Decorations and food for New Years. I was told by my guide, William to go Saturday nite. It will be packed but fun to see. William is second generation Chinese, and his family goes here to shop for New Years.
Statue of Lady working hard to remind people that life was tough at the beginning
And because its the year of the snake, snakes everywhere!
New Year's Decorations everywhere! So colorful
Special New Years Cakes.
After thoroughly exploring Chinatown, we stumbled into a Hindu temple, again in middle of Chinatown. It is the Sri Mriamman Temple, Singapore's oldest Hindu temple. It was founded in 1827 by Nariana Pillai who played an important role during Stamford Raffles "colonial period". He became an important leader for the Indian Community during the British colonial period. We visited during a ceremony. I'm not sure what kind of ceremony but it was very spiritual. I don't know much about Hinduism so need to learn more. But one thing is for sure, there are some similarities to Buddhism. For example, one most walk clockwise around the temple. I was very moved by the ceremony.
And it turned out to be a good way to end our tour of Chinatown, because we were headed to Little India. Well, its not quite little. It's a city within a city. Loved the smell, colors and energy!
This is where I had my first hawker food. I LOVE Indian food, especially the vegetarian part of it. I could have eaten non-stop. I really need to take an Indian cooking class as I have no idea what all the spices are. Oh and the saris, and GOLD. GOLD, GOLD, GOLD everywhere! I digress. I finally decided to have a biryani but cooked in a claypot. IT WAS DELICIOUS and only 3 USDs!!
Hawker Food!
Tekka Centre is where we went. Highly recommend it. Here's my lunch:
So filling and DELICIOUS! I used a fork and spoon though. Can't do the eat with the left hand thing efficiently.
And then the skies opened up. William was going to take me to Orchard Street but since it was a downpour with thunder and lightnening we went to the Peranakan Museum instead which is highly recommended. Firstly, the pottery and embroidery... OMG! GORGEOUS! I want! And very interesting culture. Basically, its a unique culture to Singapore, because when the Chinese immigrated, it was mostly men. They ended up marrying the local Malay, and thus a new culture/ethnic group was born. I wanted to go to Baba house, a typical Nonya (or Peranakan house) but unfortunately closed for New Years. I could not take any photos in the museum but I am on a mission to buy some pottery, etc, so will post when I succeed. You cannot go to Singapore without exploring the Peranankan culture and tradition.
And so my first full day at Singapore comes to an end but not until I visit Raffles Hotel. The infamous hotel named after Stamford Raffles who played an important in the modern history of Singapore. Normally, I'm very negative on the British during the colonialization of Asia but Stamford Raffles at least learned the Malay language and worked with the local people. My guide said that most Singaporeans appreciate Raffle. But what the Japanese did.....Again, horrible stories told by my guide of the Japanese Occupation - the only dark period during the modern history of Singapore.
And so, I went to Raffles Hotel. Just like what I did 25+ years ago. Nothing much has changed except, the elegance is gone, where flip flops, shorts and T-shirts are acceptable. And it seemed shabby. So sad.. I was looking forward to visiting the museum but even that was closed.
But had to end the day at Long Bar in the Raffles. Nothing has changed. Peanuts still available, and they still serve the original Singapore Sling. So that's what I had to end my first day in Singapore.