Monday January 13, 2014
Seoul, Korea
FREEZING -10 to -2C
Hello from beautiful but freezing cold Seoul, Korea. I'm here to spend a long weekend with my BFF Eunice as Monday Jan 13 is a holiday in Japan. Eunice and I met in Tokyo in 2007 when we were the only working female expats working in the apartment building. Since then, we've become very good friends despite the distances where she moved to Korea and I went back to California and now back in Tokyo.
So when I decided to go to Naoshima, I invited her as I know it is someplace she would love. I've always wanted to go to Naoshima as the entire island is a museum. It started with the son of the founder of Benesse who donated millions of dollars to create an art site at Naoshima to help the aging and dying economy of this beautiful island. It is a bit complicated to get to but definitely worth it. The islands are beautiful and the water is see through. To get there, we spent the nite in Okayama (there is a direct flight from Seoul), woke up early to take the train to Uno harbor and then a boat to Naoshima. When we arrived at Naoshima, we took the Benesse Hotel bus which wisked us away to our hotel.
It was definitely worth the trip. The hotel, artwork, museums are just gorgeous and blend in with the landscape. There are a couple of "Benesse House Hotel" but we stayed in the Oval House which had magnificent views of the ocean.
Once we got there, we started our tour. Our first stop was to see the grounds by the ocean of Benesse House. It did not disappoint. The grounds were dotted with sculptures. It was a cold and clear day but still gorgeous!
The Port at Naoshima
We were first greeted by this tin man at Benesse House Park - one of the Benesse Hotels
Benesse House Park Hotel
The famous pumpkin sculpture on the grounds of Benesse House Park
Everywhere you go, art blends in with nature
Our next stop was the Chichu Art Museum which is an underground museum. Unfortunately photos were not allowed so I only have a photo of the outside. The entire museum in "underground" and was designed by the famous Takao Ando. The museum houses important works from James Turrell, Monet and Walter Da Maria and wow, it does the artwork justice. It's quite special. It really is one of the most beautiful museums I've ever been to.
Only photo of the Chichu Museum as no photos were allowed
View from the cafe of Chichu Museum
The next stop was the Lee Ufan Museum dedicated to the Korean artist Lee Fan. He is known for finding stones and making them art. The way he places them have a very Zen like feel to it. One controversy - the pamphlet states that he was born in Japan. Fact is that he was born in Korea during the Japanese occupation. So Eunice, being Korean American, immediately picked up on the "mistake". Hopefully, it was an honest mistake and not another "nationalistic political statement". Again cameras were not allowed so I could not take any pictures.
Entrance to the Lee Ufan museum
Our next adventure was to go into town to visit the "Art House Projects", where traditional and abandoned houses were transformed to artwork.
Everywhere you go in town one finds "art".
Our first stop was the Ando Museum where I learned alot about his background. Again no photos were allowed so no pictures. But what surprised me the most about Takao Ando is that he is self taught. Didn't got to university, just learned on his own after being inpired by the Imperial Hotel building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. I also learned that he is from Osaka and designed many buildings there. I took a mental note to do a Takao Ando tour of Osaka.
Our next stop was Gokaisho which means meeting place for "go" players. The artist Suda, installed a piece called falling Camillia which I took a phots of before I was told "no photos"
Gokaisho
The next stop was Kinza,, an over 100 year old house where one needs to make a reservation to enter. Basically you go into the house, sit on a stone and reflect on the stones, glass etc that you see. To be honest, I did not get this one.
Kinza
Haisha ( Dentist) was fun to visit. The converted Dentist office was whimsical with a Statue of Liberty in the middle of the house.
Haisha
While walking to the different Art House projects we noticed the locals displaying art in their own gardens.
We also visited Kadoya, Minamidera and Ishibashi where again no photos were allowed inside. Kadoya was interesting because an installation called Sea of Time can be found in the house where the residents helped create. Basically, in the house is a large square pool of water with LED lights. Quite beautiful
Ishibashi belonged to a prosperous business man in the salt industry which was the main industry of Naoshima years ago. The house is big with the most beautiful and modern sumie paintings on the sliding doors. Gorgeous.
Minamidera is a new structure designed by Takao Ando next to the Minami Temple and houses a spectacular James Turrell installation which plays on your eyesight. At first you are in a pitch dark room and can't see anything, but as your eyes adjust after about 15min, you seel a blue square light which you can walk to. Amazing. I was first introduced to James Turrel in Argentina. The guy is a genius.
Our last stop of the "Art House" Tour was the Go'o shrine which is an Edo period shrine "updated" by the artist Hiroshi Sugimoto. The glass staircase surprisingly fits well with the temple. At the end of the visit, you get a flashlight and get to go underneath the temple and walk a very narrow corridor lined with glass to see a pool of water. Not something you want to do if you are claustrophobic. Photos were allowed outside so I took a few.
Go'o Shrine
While visiting the different houses, we found a small cafe run by a local family. We had a delicious home made lunch in the dining area (which is their dining room). I think the husband/wife combo were first nervous as we were foreigners. But as I spoke Japanese and we loved the food, they breathed a sign of relief :))
After a long day, it was time to check into our wonderful room at the Oval House. It was quite spectaculor. It is designed for relaxation so there is no Internet, TV and cellular access is spotty. The one negative I have is the bathroom. It was a standard bathroom one can find at a Sheration. For over 400$ a nite, I was expecting a traditional Japanese style bathroom. Anyhow, we loved our room as the views were spectacular.
Our Hotel: The Oval House
View of the sunset from our room. One wall was bascially a sliding glass door and faced the ocean.
One great benefit about staying in one of the Benesse House Hotels is that you get to meander through the museums on your own after it closes. We were also able to get reservations at one of the two restaurants in house. We had a reservation at the Japanese restaurant where I had the vegetarian Zen Kaiseki and Eunice had the regular Kaiseki. All the dishes were exquisitely done.
The Japanese Restaurant at Benesse House
A sample of what I had
We finished dinner around 7pm, meandered through the museum a bit, went to our hotel room and as there was nothing else to do, we decided to go to bed around 830pm!
The next morning I woke up around 5am, where I read a bit, then got dressed quietly to take a photo of the sunrise
As we were leaving on this day, we first went to the buffet breakfast and had a huge breakfast and enjoyed some of the local delicacies (seaweed, fish, etc). We then decided to explore Benesse House and more of the grounds before heading back to Okayama to go home.
I found out that for people who are willing to spend the money, Benesse House will pick you up at Okayama station, drive you to the port, and take you to Benesse House on a private boat. Below is the private dock.
Artwork on the beach
The Feng Shui outdoor bath. One has to make reservations to use it and has to wear a bathing suit which is rare in Japan
Because we explored Benesse House early, I was able to get a photo before again the security guards told me no photos are allowed. I'm not sure why they have that rule as many other museums do allow for photos these days.
Ultraman Exhibit
This exhibit drove me crazy because chatterbox is all that I heard while exploring the Benesse House Museum.
I loved the place. And while there found out that other islanda in the reqion are now "art islands" I have to do another visit, but perhaps when its a bit warmer. We went on a weekend in December as when I tried to make reservations last year around September timeframe, that was the earliest they had an opening. If ever in Japan, its definitely worth visiting. There is no place on earth like it.