Saturday April 16, 2011
Solvang, California
Perfect Sunny Day
After a GRUELING week working a convention in Las Vegas for work, I took off on Friday to join my BFF Sandra and new friend Belinda from the UK to do a Sideways wine tasting tour in Santa Ynez valley. For me it was about a 2.5 hour drive with stops for some photos. I left around noon with very little sleep the night before as I had lots of things to take care of before taking time off for an extended weekend trip. I thought I'd have a tough time driving as I was quite tired but the scenery was so beautiful that I enjoyed it.
Our base was Solvang. Sandra and Belinda were driving from San Jose and me from Malibu. My navigation system took me there via a very scenic route where I got off 101 in Santa Barbara and took the windy San Marcos Pass road through the mountains to Solvang. It was a beautiful drive. So beautiful that I stopped a few times for photos.
View of Santa Ynez Valley from the San Marcos Pass
As the road went down into the valley, I got a fabulous view of Cachuma Lake
I arrived in Solvang around 330pm. Solvang is known as the Danish capital of America. It was founded 100 years ago by Danish-American scholars who were looking to buy land to establish a Danish community. After WWII, mainstream America discovered the town, and it became a tourist mecca. Today, the town has a "kitchy" feel to it but it is also home to authentic Danish bakeries that have been family owned for several generations. And today, it is located in the heart of Santa Ynez Wine country which became famous after the movie Sideways.
Our goal of the trip was to go to the wineries and restaurants which were used as a location for Sideways. What amazes me about Santa Ynez valley is that when I graduated college in 1983, they were only a handful of wineries in the valley. Today there are 100s of wineries. The area is known to grow superb Shiraz, Pinot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blancs.
Sandra and Belinda arrived around 7pm, and the first thing we did is walk through the town of Solvang to Root 246, a restaurant owned by the Chumash Indians and managed by celebrity chef Bradley Ogden. The restaurant has received fab reviews and all the ingredients are from local farmers. We were able to get seats by the bar and had a lovely conversation with a couple who eats there at least once a week. I even got them to donate for Socks for Japan! The meal was fabulous, but we ate way too much!
Solvang: Danish influence everywhere!
We had to have Pinot Noir for dinner of course at Root 246
Wild mushroom flatbread
Pork Buns: Cha Siu Bao done Root 246 style
Sandra's Blue Cheese Souffle
Belinda's tempura squid, shrimp and veggies with spicy roumalade
Cheese dumplings - so rich, but so good
Shake and Bake Petaluma Chicken with the BEST mashed potatoes: This was my favorite dish
We got back to our hotel around 1030pm, STUFFED! And I was SO TIRED. Although our plan was to watch the movie Sideways, after a shower, I went straight to bed and fell soundly asleep. And so did Sandra and Belinda.
The next day we got up around 630am. Belinda and Sandra watched Sideways, while I worked on email, bills, and also my last blog entry about the Rio trip. We then went for a quick breakfast, packed food, water for a planned picnic at a winery and took off to begin our Sideways tour.
Our first stop was the Fess Parker winery. It was founded by the actor Fess Parker who played Daniel Boone and Davy Crockett on TV. So when you go there, you find alot of Daniel Boone paraphenelia. It was founded by him in 1989 and today is one of the most famous wineries in Santa Ynez valley. In Sideways, the winery was called Frass Canyon and one of the most memorable scenes were filmed at the winery. When Miles (the leading character in the movie) finds that his book does not get published, distraught he goes back to the tasting room and asks for refills. When he is refused, he goes ballistic and grabs the dump bucket and drinks the wine! It's a classic scene from the movie.
We tasted 6 wines (Sandra and I shared a tasting as I was the driver). The six wines that we tried were:
- 2009 Chardonnay "Santa Barbara County"
- 2008 Voigner "Santa Barbara County" - I liked this one and bought a bottle
- 2007 Pinot Noir "Bien Nacido Vineyard" - loved this one and bought bottles
- 2008 Pinot Noir "Ashley"
- 2008 Syrah "Santa Barbara County"
- 2007 Syrah "Rodney's Vineyard"
Fess Parker Winery Tasting Room
The Girls @ Fess Parker
Our next stop is the Firestone Winery. It is one of the largest wineries in the region. It was founded in 1972 by the Firestone family but today it is owned by a billionaire - Bill Foley. We took a tour of the winery which was nice as we got a refresher on wine making. At Firestone we tried 6 wines plus a special tasting:
- 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
- 2009 Chardonnay
- 2009 Gewurztraminer
- 2007 Syrah
- 2007 Merlot
- 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
- Goodnight - a very special wine that we tasted. A bought a signed Magnum bottle as a gift
A cork tree at Firestone
Close up of a cork tree. It takes 9-12 years to harvest this tree.
In the movie "Sideways", the four main characters, Miles, Jack, Maya, and Stephanie are bored with the wine tour and sneak away into the barrel room
View of the vineyard from Firestone Winery
Our next stop was Zaca Mesa, which did not appear in the movie Sideways but is a good winery so we stopped by for a tasting. Zaca Mesa is one of the first wineries in the area and was founded by a group of friends. Their wines consistently get high ratings so was very looking forward to the tasting. We tried 7 wines including some unique wines that are difficult to find in stores:
- 2010 Estate Z Gris
- 2009 Voignier
- 2007 Estate Roussane - this was so buttery and an unusual white wine that is served room temperature so I bought a bottle
- 2008 Estate Z-Blanc
- 2007 Estate Z-Cuvee
- 2007 Estate Syrah (the most popular)
- 2006 Estate Z-Three
Zaca Mesa Winery Vineyards with the California poppies in full bloom
California poppies
Our next stop was a fun winery: Foxen. A funky winery which was discovered and became famous because of Sideways. The wine tasting is located in 2 places. The original is the one we went to as it was used in Sideways and can be easily missed because it's a shack. Foxen has built a more modern and fancy wine tasting building recently to accomadate the high interest in their wines. They are I believe, the only winery in the area that still grows Chenin Blanc grapes. We loved the atmosphere. It was so casual and welcoming with wine flowing and yummy cheese and crackers.
- 2009 Sauvignon Blanc - Vogelzang Vineyard
- 2007 Volfino
- 2008 Cabernet Franc
- 2008 Range 30 West - I loved this wine so got a bottle
- 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Wine Tasting at Foxen
Foxen Winery entrance
Decor inside the winery
Our last winery for the day was Rancho Sisquoc Winery which also was not featured in Sideways but highly recommended. It's a boutique winery where one gets to try 6 wines for only 8$ and you get the glass. Everywhere else is was 10$ w/ glass.
We had a great guy serve us as he was so enthusiastic. We tried the following wines:
- 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
- 2009 Slyvaner - a unique grape for white wine and delicious. I bought a bottle!
- 2009 Sisquoc River Red - We liked this so bought a bottle for the night
- 2007 Syrah
- 2008 Merlot
- 2008 Malbec ( our first California Malbec)
- 2008 Cellar Select Meritage (bonus and it was VERY BOLD)
The winery is located in the middle of a ranch. A very quiet and quaint location managed by the friendliest people. We thoroughly enjoyed the visit.
Rancho Sisquoc Winery
After accomplishing our wine tour of the day, we headed to Los Olivos for a late lunch, early supper. We went to Los Olivos Cafe and Wine Merchant. The bar scene was used in the movie. We had a fabulous lunch there and also spent time exploring the quaint town of Los Olivos.
Los Olivos Cafe and Wine Merchant
The pizza we shared
Yummy roasted local vegetables
We downed our lunch/supper with a bottle of YNOT Pinot Noir. And after walking around town, we left for our hotel, where we just chilled for the rest of the day with our bottle of 2009 Sisquoc River Red Wine. We went to bed around 9pm as we were pretty tired and had a full day and lots of driving to do tomorrow.
Los Olivos