Thursday May 7, 2009
DMZ, Korea
Hot and Sunny
"Germany was split because of her sins, Korea was split because of her innocence" Breen quotes a German diplomat in his book "The Koreans". How can a country that had the world's longest history as a united country continue to be a country of broken people? There are many reasons for it: the Japanese occupation where cruel tactics were taken to destroy the sense of Korean national identity, Britain refusing to support an independent Korea fearing her "colonies" would seek independence, 3 Americans including Dean Rusk of the War Department drew a line by the 38th parallel without consultation to Koreans, allies or even President Truman after WWII, the Korean War and unfortunately as Walter Kronkite said "Hatred breeds Hate". Basically, Korea was used as a pawn for postwar security of Asia and Japan. This had devastating effects to the people which resulted in the Korean War. An armistice agreement was signed but unfortunately no peace agreement so technically the two countries are still at war. Over 10 million families separated, over 3 million Korean civilians dead from both sides and a country left in shambles. South Korea was the world's poorest country and was written off by the rest of the world. But South Korea emerged from the ashes and in one generation became an economic powerhouse which speaks of the resilience of the Korean people. But even today, there are families that are broken as many still do not know the fate of their families in North Korea. And we all read about the famine and poverty in North Korea.
So for my last day in Korea, I decided to visit the DMZ. I did not know what to expect. My first reaction was "wow, look at all the birds!". Because no one lives in the area, its a haven for birds. I saw egrets, wild swans and many ducks. However, when we got to the border, reality hits you and the whole visit made all the news, books, etc I read regarding the tension between the two countries real. A few years ago things were better when both the South and North Koreans agreed to form a city in North Korea for manufacturing using South Korea technology and know-how and North Korean skilled labor. All of that is in suspension now because of a) George Bush called North Korea "evil" and b) the North Koreans arrested a South Korean worker for saying negative things about North Korea. So the tension was pretty high when I visited as the missile test conducted about a month ago was still fresh in everyone's mind.
The tour was tightly controlled and very well run. However, I was disappointed in that the tour guides conveniently forgot that South Korea did not have a democratically elected government until the 80s. Yes, things that are happening in North Korea are very bad but the fact is that South Korea was also ruled by dictators and a brutal military dictator where many innocent people died under their rule and lets not forget the Jeju island genocide. So their talk about South Korea being "good" and North Korea being "bad" did not go well with me. However, I kept my mouth shut as I did not want to be pushed over to the Northern side! But during lunch, I had a discussion with my fellow tourists and some who knew the history were in agreement with me and some who knew nothing about the history were surprised.
But despite the inaccurate history, the human suffering that occurred and is still occurring on both sides is heartbreaking. They say the young Koreans "don't care" and are not interested in what is happening. But all they have to do is to listen to what their grandparents have been through. It seems that everyone Korean family has been touched by the division of the country. Eunice's parents were both from South Korea but her father went without food for over a week during the Korean War. My guide's father escaped from North Korea with his brother and have no idea what has happened to his parents and his sisters. Another friend's mother escaped North Korea with him to South Korea and they have no idea what happened to their relatives and have no other relatives in South Korea.
So how can this end? I believe the key is China. Before the Japanese occupation, Korea has always had a brotherly relationship with China. Today, without China, North Korea is powerless. South Korea is also establishing strong ties with China. Hopefully, China can help resolve this conflict. Unfortunately, I don't believe the US can be of any influence. Many South Koreans distrust the US as there is a perception the US supported the military dictatorship (its my understanding the US govt did on the outside but also did a lot of negotiations behind close doors to ensure Kim Dae Jung's safety). So my wish is for the DMZ to disappear peacefully in my lifetime. It would be great to see this wonderful country re-united once again.
Mt Odu Unification Observatory. This was our first stop. Took this photo from the moving bus. It was built in 1992 so that South Koreans can view life in North Korea. Not much to see though except for some farm land. South Koreans are not allowed to visit the DMZ so this is the only place where they can go to see the North.
Mt. Odu Unification Observatory: Every Lunar New Year, many South Korean families come here to this shrine to pray. They wish for safety for their relatives in North Korea and wish to see them again before they die. Unfortunately, many of the prayers have not been answered.
Mt Odu Unification Observatory: Poster of Kim Jong-il. The observatory also carries a lot of sample North Korean products, monies, etc.
Mt. Odu Unification Observatory: North Korean classroom. Our guide was "acting" teacher.
Mt Odu Unification Observatory: North Korean Calendar is based on Juche year. Juche is the idealism founded by North Korea's "founder" Kim Il-Sung, who is eternal President of Korea. Year One is April 15, 1912, Kim Il-Sung's birthday. Juche means spirit of self reliance.
On the way to the DMZ. We saw checkpoints and barbwire all along the river. Years ago, North Korean spies enter South Korea from the river and tried to assassinate one of the Presidents. Since then, barbwire and checkpoints have been put in place.
Our first stop in the DMZ was Camp Boniface which is home to the United Nations Command Security Battalion - Joint Security Area. Its named after an US army captain who was killed by North Korean soldiers in what is known as the Axe Murder Incident (more on this later). We had to line up in two lines go thru 2 passport checks (one by a South Korean soldier and another by a US army soldier) and follow the rules the guides gave us. We also had to sign a document stating we will follow all the rules, will not fraternize with North Korean or Chinese soldiers, including speaking and pointing and we understand we can get killed and will not hold the United Nations Joint Command responsible for hostile act. We also had a "clothing check". No flip flops, torn jeans, shorts, etc. When you have 2 armed soldiers escorting you, we all made sure we followed the rules like school children. The camp also has a 1 hole golf course and is known as the most dangerous golf course in the world as it is surrounded by land mines! After we got the briefing of the place and signed our life away we marched like school children to the Freedom House. There we got a good view of North Korea and was allowed to take pictures.
Photo of North Korean soldier from the Freedom House
The visitor center in Camp Bonifas. The center garden at one point was a sunken garden. During Soviet times, a Soviet was taking the DMZ tour in North Korea and decided to make a run for it and defect. Shots were fired from both sides, deaths occurred by the Soviet defector was safe and hid in the sunken garden. Today he is a reporter in LA!
We crossed the border! However it happened inside the MAC conference room. We were not allowed to get near the border from the outside. The MAC conference room is used for meeting with the North Koreans. The middle of the conference room is the border or Military Demarcation Line. There is a phone right smack in the center of the conference room and a wire that signifies where the border is.
I took this photo from inside the MAC. The Military Demarcation Line is the concrete block. Gravel area is South Korea, cement floor is North Korea.
South Korean soldier standing in Tae Kwan Do ready position in the MAC to protect us in case the North decides to invade.
South Korean soldier guarding the border. South Korean soldiers where sunglasses so the North Korean soldiers cannot see what they are looking at.
North Korea.
Axe Murder Incident: In 1976 tragedy struck which almost resulted in the US getting in War with North Korea. A poplar tree was blocking the view between 2 checkpoints the United Nations Command (UNC) has established. It was very close to the Bridge of No Return which is where the border is. Prior to the incident, several N. Korean soldiers have tried to drag UNC soldiers to the North via the Bridge of No Return. So it was decided to cut the tree to improve the visibility. Civilians were brought in to cut the tree protected by the UNC and headed by Capt. Bonifas. Suddenly North Korean soldiers appeared and told the UNC to stop cutting the tree. The UNC refused and then without warning the N. Koreans attacked and Capt. Bonifas was killed instantly via an axe and so was another American soldier Lt. Barrett. Several South Korean soldiers were wounded.
The memorial to the 2 American soldiers killed in the Axe Murder Incident. (We were not allowed to go outside so had to take the photo from the bus)
The Bridge of No Return: The Military Demarcation Line is in the middle of the bridge. The name originates from the fact that prisoners were given the choice to remain in the country of their captivity or cross over to the other country. But if they chose to cross the bridge, they would never be allowed to return.