Saturday October 3, 2015
FCO Airport, Italy
Sunny and Warm
Today we got up early to do a full day tour with a local legend Pino. Pino was born in Libya (Tripoli) and moved to the area when Qaddafi took over the country. His father bought property in Cortona and he still lives in the same house with his wife. He is known as the professor as he taught agriculture and wine making in the region and everyone knows him! And we found out he is 77 years old but full of energy.
Pino came to pick us up at 9am sharp and we loaded in the van and took off on the windy roads through the valley to our first stop – Montepulciano. A medieval town known for its Montepulciano wines. And it did not disappoint. We entered the town from a medieval gate and walked up the walled city. The city was known as a necropolis as it was near a volcano so was covered with ash which was ideal to bury people. So in every store, building, etc, there is a tunnel to the “basement” which is where the dead were buried. Since it was my first Medieval town in Italy I was in awe! We walked up the stone pathway to our first destination which was a winery that is over 1000 year old. And lucky us! We were there during harvest time so saw the very handsome men bring in the grapes. And we found out the wine here is 80% Sangiovese, 15% a grape with a long Italian name and 5% a grape that started with a B. And the way they figure it out the measurement is they “eye” it when loading grapes in a barrel.. The real traditional way of making wine. After some tasting and a great tour from Pino, we headed to the next shop.
Next shop was Romeo’s copper workshop where a very nice gentleman by the name Cesare who makes by hand copper pots, molds, etc. They were beautiful!.
As Pino gave us 45 minutes to shop before heading to lunch., I power shopped!
I bought a beautiful oblong dutch oven, a cake mold and a wine cooler handmade by Cesare. It turns out it was cheaper to send it to Japan then to purchase it outright as the VAT is 20% in Italy. So they did not charge me for the VAT but only charged me for shipping. So now with that in mind I decided to also buy beautiful ceramic platters decorated with sunflowers and several pieces of cashmere made locally by a family.
After spending $$$s we met up at a shop where there was olive oil, sausages and cheeses. Wonderful! Nicky picked up a few sausages to take back and Stu bought a fabulous pecorino cheese with truffles.
We then headed to our next Medieval town Pienza, where we had a delicious lunch. I had Pici (to compare the taste to what we made) with a beef and porcini sauce. Delicious!
We then explored the beautiful town of Pienza where the highlight was the view of the Unesco heritage sight - Orcia Valley. Amazing. Pino also told us about an authentic and very good gelato place (where the gelato is not on display and in tin cans which keep the temperature constant) where I had the best hazelnut gelato ever.
We then headed to our last destination which was Montelcino- home to the infamous Brunello. Here we learned that a long time ago, a wine maker found a mutant sangiovese grape that turned out to have thicker skin and a very rich taste. The wine maker then decided to cultivate this grape in the region and 5 or so years later made the first Brunello (takes at least 5 years for the first harvest). And wow, lucky for us, one of the most delicious wines are now available to us.
Pino took us to a fabulous enoteca that had hundreds of Brunellos including the world famous Luce and the wine from the vineyard who made the first Brunello (can't remember the name!). The prices were fabulous and if living in the US, shipping is free. So my friends all bought cases and I bought Luce and to bring back to Japan.
Before you know it, it was 530pm so time to head back. But Pino was nice enough to stop at a grocery store for us so we didn’t have to drive to the store for our dinner. We ended up getting back around 8pm, met up with Bob and Rick and went to make a delicious dinner of sautéed peppers, Bob’s mashed potato, veal chops for everyone but me and Rick, sautéed chicken for me and Rick and wonderful kale. We enjoyed our dinner with wine from Montelpulciano and the Syrah from Antinori. Another fabulous day.
Montepulciano
Lots of wine,cheese and cold cuts shops in Montepulciano
Many of the buildings of Montepulciano are made from local Travertine and is beautiful when cleaned
Example of dirty travertine
Special signs or those that died in the necropolis
The signs are from the Roman times. Here is a sign written in Tuscan language
Symbol of Montepulciano
Every store in Montepulciano has a "crypt" where the dead were buried thousands of years ago.
A beautiful cafe in Montepulciano - the oldest cafe in the town
And the view from the balcony
The beautiful basilica of Montepulciano
We met Pino's friend who is a mosaic artist in Montepulciano. He is world renowned.
This is where I bought a bottle of Montepulciano
Time to make wine!
This winery is over 1000 years old!
Time to go to Pienza
And got a cheese lesson from Pino
A church that is tilting due to architectural issues
Orcia Valley where the earth is all clay so only wheat can grow
Traditional architecture at Pienza
A beautiful Franciscan church
The entrance to Pienza
Orcia Valley up close. One can see the clay up close
Home of the Brunello - Montelcino
Brunello tasting!
I love the streets of the Medieval towns