Saturday April 7, 2012
Malibu, California
Glorious Passover and Easter Weekend
I had a great weekend 2 weeks ago exploring more of California with Sandra. We decided to explore Paso Robles, home to one of the world’s best Rhone Varietals wine. What’s great about Paso Robles is that it is the half way point between the Bay Area and Los Angeles.
I left for Paso around 2pm on Friday and got there by 6pm (speeding of course!). Again it was a beautiful drive through Central Coast California. Although our main objective was to do some wine tastings we also decided to go to the Hearst Castle because Sandra’s never been there and its been over 30 years for me.
Our weekend getaway started with us finishing up some work related matters, followed by a dinner in “downtown” Paso Robles.
We went to Artisan for dinner which was highly recommended according to Yelp. And it did not disappoint. We both had an appetizer as a main dish and shared a delicious salad to start with. We brought our own wine but since they had a fab and reasonable selection of wines including sparkly ones, we decided to enjoy a recommended sparkling wine instead.
After a good night’s sleep ( I think we were in bed by 9pm!)we were off to a hearty breakfast in “town” to start our wine tasting adventure. But first stop was Albertson’s Super market. Why? The “wine steward” at Albertson’s Linda is very well known in the community and is THE EXPERT on wines from Paso Robles. She was even written up in Wine Spectator Magazine.
We got recommendations from her including some wines that we never heard of because they were created and bottled specially for her. We wrote down some recommended wines and also got confirmation from her that the list of wineries we wanted to visit are the ones we should see. After doing our research and getting advice from Linda, we were off to tasting wine.
We decided to go to the wineries in the “west side” towards the coast, not only because the recommended wineries are there but also because it is supposed to be beautiful. And it did not disappoint. Sandra brought her bike and before breakfast took an hour long bike ride in the area and confirmed it is gorgeous.
Our first winery was a small boutique winery called Alta Colina. Their first vintage was in 2007 and they are a boutique winery. We Tried 4 wines:
- 2009 Ganache: A bold good winter wine
- 2009 GSM (53%Syrah, 23%Grenache, 24%Mourvedre): A lighter wine but good
- 2009 Toasted Slope Syrah: Very Dry but supposedly mellows with age
- 2010 Late Harvest Voigner: Their first successful dessert wine. Pretty good!
It was a good way to start our wine tasting. The co-owner was very nice and served us the wines
The second winery was Adelaida. It was established in 1981 and is family owned. The owner is a doctor fro Ohio and Adelaida is the 12th oldest winery in Paso Robles. They are also the first to do Pinots in Paso Robles. We tried 5 wines while at the winery.
- Pinot Noir HMR (named after Dr. Hoffman) Reserve 2003: Did not like it. It was too light
- 2003 Rhone Style Red: Better but not great
- Syrah Glenrose Vineyard Reserve: The second best wine we tasted at this winery
- Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: Very oaky, very dry , very cabernet sauvignon
Cab. Sauv/Syrah Mt.RES 2005: The best wine we tasted from this winery. Big, bold and beautiful
The third winery we went to is Tablas Creek, a pretty well known winery in California. They run a pretty big operation and their 1st vintage was in 1997 Robert Haas is the owner and of the first to recognize Paso Robles as fertile for wine grapes. We tried the following wines:
- Cotes de Tablas Blanc 2010: Delish! Great for summer or Thai food
- Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc 2010: Another delish wine. This one will be good for picnics. Its modeled after Chateauneuf-du- Pape Blanc (One of the partners is a French wine maker in Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine making region)
- Patelin de Tablas 2010: made with organic fruit, good table wine
- Cotes de Tablas 2010: richer than Patelin. A very good table wine
- Esprit de Beaucastel 2009: LOVED this wine. Very smooth. Has more tannin so will age well
- Vermentino 2010: made from a Mediterranean variety prominent on the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. It was OK. Very different but I can see it be good with fish
Tablas Creek vineyards were surrounded by walnut trees
Our fourth winery was the famous Justin Winery. I luv, luv , luv their wines. The grounds were gorgeous and they did not disappoint. We luved ALL of their wines. We tried the following ending with one of their most famous wines Isosceles
- 2010 Chardonnay: Not oaky and very good!
- 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon: This is 50% of their production! Very, very good table wine
- 2009 Reserve Tempranillo: Good. Much better than some of the Spanish brands
- 2009 Justification: One of my favorite wines. It was excellent
- 2009 Isosceles: What can you say. The BEST!!
Since we were making good time wine tasting, we decided to visit the 2 wineries we had planned on visiting the next day as they were on route 46, the main drag that will take us to the coast.
The first stop on the new route was Caliza (Spanish word for limestone), a small boutique winery. They are a new winery and is only 3 years old. We thought it was OK. The people at the winery were very nice though. We tried the following wines:
- 2010 Kissin’ Cousins: A Voignier. A true Voignier. One can guess the variety from the 1st taste.
- 2010 Pink: A sweet dessert wine. Not quite Beaume de Venise, my favorite dessert wine but pretty good
- 2009 Sympatico: A pretty good tempranillo. Very chocolatey but not an exceptional wine
- 2010 Cohort: A bigger wine than Sympatico. The best we tasted and it won the Gold Medal 2012 at San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
The last stop of the day was at Venteux Winery. They too are a boutique winery. They practice dry farming which means they don’t use irrigation. We liked the wines from this winery. We tried the following 5 wines:
- 2009 Mourvedre: 100% Mourvedre, a Rhone Varietal. It was very grapey but good
- 2008 Estate Syrah, Paso Robles: very very good. They only use wild natural yeast to make this wine
- 2008 Tache le Verre (Stain the Glass), Santa Barbara County: As one can guess, the grapes are not from Paso Robles but from Santa Barbara. It was a very sexy and smoky wine
- 2008 PMS, Paso Robles: very very good wine. PMS stands for Petite Syrah, Mourvedre and Syrah (not what you were thinking!). I had to get a bottle though and will save it when Sandra and I celebrate our birthdays (we both have birthdays in July)
- 2008 Petite Syrah, Paso Robles: An excellent wine. The only wine aged in American Oak from this winery
Dinner (first was brewery,but there were not serving dinner and the bar was filled with dogs- yes real dogs!) so went to Villa Creek, another highly recommended place that is in town. We sat at the bar and had the bar menu. I had the most amazing Chile Relleno! I would definitely go back there again. We found the town to be cute down but NO diversity. I was one of the few folks that was not pure white! Very interesting .
We went back to hotel to watch movie and drink our wine from Albertson’s that was bottled for Linda. Of course, we got buzzed and ordered another bottle with nachos from room service (big mistake). We both passed out from the excess wine and did not enjoy the movie.
Next morning, with a slight hangover, we went for a walk to get fresh air and the heartbeat going. I walked around the neighborhood which was nice and quiet. We then got ready for our next adventure.. Hearst castle.
The drive to Hearst Castle across the valley toward the coast was one of the most magnificent drives, I’ve ever taken. I highly recommend it. We took highway 46 which goes through the valley and drops you down to the ocean.
We stopped at Moonstone Beach Bar and Grill for lunch and found out they were serving “free champagne”!! It was definitely cooler on the coast but gorgeous! After a filling lunch, we walked along the coast a bit and then drove to Hearst Castle.
Since we got there early, we tried to get on an earlier tour which we were able to. In addition, we timed it so that we would see a movie about the history of the “castle” before taking the tour. It turns out it was a very good thing to do, because it gives you a perspective of why Hearst built it. And we found out that Hearst never called it a castle. It was a working ranch and a place where he can host Hollywood actors and actresses (and of course his mistress – Marion Davies) to some of the most amazing parties.
We took only one of the tours which really is enough. The grounds are spectacular and the views are amazing. We learned during the movie that Hearst loved the California Oak trees that dotted the hills and built the castle where he used to camp with his parents when he was a child. The majestic oak trees still dot the hills.
It was then time to say our goodbyes. Sandra drove up Highway 1 to the Bay Area and I drove down Highway 1 to the airport as I had to go to NYC. If visiting California, I highly recommend a trip to Paso Robles. You won’t regret it.