The Snowlady Chronicles

Getting Pampered at the Peninsula Hong Kong

Monday Sept 21 2009

Hong Kong

30C Hot, Humid and a Downpour

Our last full day in Hong Kong and today is spa day.  We took it easy in the morning where I went to the health club on the top floor of the Sheraton and worked out on the treadmill to 80s music and a fab view of the skyline of Hong Kong.    I had to burn a few calories as though our focus of the day was spa, we still had eating on our agenda.

After the workout, we headed to Hong Kong Island to go to IFC mall to meet Susan’s friend and adorable son for some Dim Sum.   Thank god we had the 1130am reservation, as this place is impossible to get into.  Anyhow, we had another fabulous dim sum meal at Lei Garden. The highlight for me was the noodles. (It was so good I forgot to take a photo) They were light, homemade and delicious. After the meal, we said our goodbye’s to Susan’s friend and son, and Susan and I went for some dessert.  We went to Honeymoon Dessert restaurant that specializes in modern Chinese desserts.  I had the mango pancake and Susan had 2 types of traditional Chinese desserts:  one made from egg whites and the other from coconut milk.  We then headed back to the hotel stuffed again!

Enjoy the Dim Sum, I have better things to do!

Fresh out of the oven!  Susan's favorite - custard filled buns.  This one was really good.

Spring rolls with turnips and veggies.  First time I've had it, it was good.

Shanghai soup dumplings

Hagows:  It was a good shrimp dumpling.

The place is famous for Char Sui.  It was one of the best I've ever had.

When we left, the lines to get in were long.

Time for dessert at Honeymoon Desserts!

My mango pancake

Egg white and Coconut milk based typical Chinese dessert.  I can't remember which one was which but I had a taste of coconut soup and it was good.

My spa appointment at the Peninsula was at 4pm, but Edward  - a good friend of mine- was able to meet us for a drink so we met him at the Peninsula at 3pm.  The weather has been great in the sense that it hasn’t rained but just as we were heading out to the Peninsula, which is across the street from us, it started pouring.  Fortunately for us, we found an underground pass that would take us to the Peninsula although it was a bit confusing so took us 3 times longer to get there.  Anyhow, Edward was a bit late too as he got caught in the rain and showed up soaked!  The line to have tea was ridiculous at the Peninsula so we went to the bar instead where we had a Lychee based cocktail in a very elegant setting.  It was great catching up with Edward and the visit was too short but I’m glad I was able to see him.

Then it was time for the spa.  Susan did not have an appointment but luckily, there was a cancellation so they were able to fit us both in.  And what a spa!  It’s ranked one of the best hotel spas in the world and I can vouch for it.   We first enjoyed the peppermint steam room that was so cool in that it had a lava stone in the middle of the steam room.  One can either ice themselves afterward or enjoy the tropical showers before jumping into the dry sauna that has a wonderful view of the Hong Kong skyline.  We then chilled out in the relaxation room until our masseuse came over to pick us up.

The Lychee cocktail Susan, Edward and I had at the Peninsula.

I had the Ama treatment that is a detoxifying Ayurverdic treatment that includes a body scrub, massage and Shiodhara where oil is poured through the 3rd eye on your forehead.  It was a heavenly experience.  2 hours later both of us glowing and relaxed got ready for our last dinner together in Hong Kong.

Photos were hard to take inside the spa for obvious reasons but here is one I was able to take.  The spa was gorgeous.

For our last dinner we went to a famous Cantonese restaurant in the Intercontinental Hotel called the Yan Toh Heen.   It is quite a fancy restaurant in that the place settings are made of jade.   We had a seafood dumpling where tofu was the skin, a special chicken dish with detoxifying mushrooms and sautéed spinach.  As a service at the end , we had moon cakes that were so rich and good that I bought a box.

The Jade Place Setting

The Scene

Tofu Skins (yuba in Japanese) stuffed with Abalone and Shrimp.  So Good...

Special of the Season:  Chicken sauteed with a special detoxing mushroom.  It was a weird looking mushroom but it was good.

Sauteed Wild Spinach

By the time we finished it was 10pm and time to go back. 

It was so much fun traveling with Susan as I have not seen her in ages!  And I do believe Hong Kong is still the most cosmopolitan and international city in the world.  I’m going to have to go back again soon but this time combine it with more time spent in Shenzhen.

Eating My Way Thru Hong Kong and Finding the Mystical Hong Kong

Monday September 21, 2009

Hong Kong (Kowloon and Hong Kong Island)

30C - A Steam bath

Yesterday was shopping day and today was eating day.  My BFF from NYC, Susan arrived late last night and we mapped out our eating tour for today.  There are so many Hong Kong specialties and restaurants to try that we had trouble prioritizes and planning.  Anyhow, after finishing a bottle of wine at the Sky Bar with a fab view of Kowloon, we hit the sack to prepare for a full day of eating.

Our day started early as Susan was a bit jet lagged, with a Starbucks coffee across the street at Seibu department store.  Amazing that the Starbucks  was open when Seibu was closed.  Amazing because all the designer bags, cosmetics, etc was just out there on display and yet no one stole them.  Security must be very good on Nathan Road, we just don’t see it.

We then took off to take the Star Ferry to the peak.  Since it was a Sunday, the ferry was packed with Filipina ladies ready to spend their day off in Central.  The Star Ferry was just how I remembered it but Kowloon has changed!  Even Susan, who lived there just a few years ago was amazed at the change.  Skyscrapers and new fancy malls everywhere.  A shopper’s paradise!

On board the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island

Hong Kong Island:  Central Pier

The main drag of Hong Kong Island and Financial Center

Landmark Mall:  We could walk through air conditioned malls to get to our destination, well at least most of the way.

We walked to the tram station and took the famous tram to the peak.  Once up the peak, we again were amazed how things have changed.  A new pavilion has been built which houses more shops and restaurants with great views of the harbor.  Our plan was to have a coffee or refreshment at the peak and just as we were about to go to Bubba Gumps from a drink, we saw a sign to a Chinese restaurant and decided to go there instead.  It was a fancy restaurant called Tien Yi and since we agreed that we would focus on eating for the day,  we decided to have just “two” dim sums to wet our appetite.  They were also serving Pu’er tea and since we both were into detoxing, we had a huge pot of that to do with our first dim sum of the day.   And the dim sum was delicious!   Especially the hagow (shrimp dumpling).  It definitely was the best hagow we’ve had.  The views were magnificent and the service was wonderful. 

The famous tram that was out of commission only twice:  During WWII and 1966 during a major flood where the tracks were washed away.

View from the tram.

View from the Peak

Our dim sum at Tien Yi.  The hagow was the best!

We had to get going as our official “dim sum” appointment was at 130pm at Island Tang’s and wanted to check out Central a bit.   We took the tram back down and stopped at Shanghai Tangs which carries the most exquisite and unique household gifts and clothing.  I love their bags and clothes but they are very expensive as a lot of it is made from silk and cashmere.  I did buy some souvenirs including 2 gifts for myself – a picture frame and a jade bookmark.  
It was approaching 130pm so we headed to Island Tang’s.  For some reason, I thought it was going to be a noisy and very casual place but NO, it was elegant and gorgeous!   The dining room was decorated in Art Deco style and the whole ambiance was “refined”.  I let Susan do the ordering and we had another fabulous meal.  We agreed that the fried turnip was the best dish of the day.  Island Tang has only been open for about a year but has received rave reviews.    I highly recommend it.   

The gorgeous bar at Island Tang's

The ambiance of Island Tang's:  I felt like I was walking into 1950s Hong Kong

The Fried Turnip:  The Best!

Island Tang's version of the Hagow - had a bit more veggies.

Custard filled buns:  Susan's favorite

Shanghai soup dumplings

Fried boneless chicken wings

Typical Tram in Central:  Nicely decorated these days.

We were to head to the noodle place for wonton noodles next but Susan’s parents-in-law called and wanted to meet us for tea.  So instead we went back to Kowloon via the MTR (the metro) to Jordan station, where we met them for tea at small coffee shop.  Susan’s parents-in-law are fun and have a HUGE heart!   While chatting I mentioned I wanted to go to Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin temple and Loretta’s (Susan’s  mom in-law) eyes lit up and said she will take us there as she  wants to go see the Fortune Teller.  Of course, now I’m excited because I did want to go see the fortune teller  but thought it would not work out due to me not speaking Cantonese but Loretta who is a professional interpreter offered to do the translation!  What luck!

The entrance to the Wong Tai Sin Temple

So change of  plans, where we decided to take a break from eating and go see the fortune teller.  The place was big!!  With lots of people burning incense and saying prayers.  It is a Taoist temple.  I don’t know much about it but Susan’s father in-law explained that it is the original religion of China and was prevalent until Buddhism was introduced 3000 years later.  This particular temple was built in 1973 and dedicated to the god Wong Tai Sin, who is worshipped by business people, the sick, and those trying to avoid illness.  It’s what of the busiest temples in Hong Kong Amazing and Colorful

Susan and in-laws riding the bus.  From left to right:  mother-in-law, father-in-law and Susan!

Loretta then told me to hurry as we have to go see the Fortune Teller.  So off we went to a building where there were 2 stories filled with Fortune Teller booths!  And everyone had a license!  I had no idea that fortunetellers needed a license.  

Loretta was a bit worried because, when we went to the booth where her fortuneteller was located was boarded up.  But another guy told her that he moved.  So we found him!  I paid him a discounted rate of 300 HK$, gave him my birthday and time of birth, only to be told, I’ll be fine and have no worries.  But he did tell me that my best years are to come 50-60 years old but I must rest.  That is, get enough sleep or else, I could suffer a nerve related disease that is painful but curable.  I also will always be running around (meaning not office bound) and that is best for me.  He then started asking me how many relationships I have had in the past.  At that point, the whole scene was like something from a comedy movie, because here we are sitting in tiny booth with Susan, her mother in law and father in law, telling the fortuneteller about my love life!!!  So funny!  He also said I need to live by the water which I am most comfortable with.  He also told me another curious thing, that having cats and dogs near me is not good as they are fire so to balance it out I need to be surrounded by fish.  Hmmm..  Anyhow, I’m looking forward to my next decade as it is supposed to a blast!

Susan also got her fortune told and basically she was told not to think too much and that we were opposites.  So she spent the next 6 hours or so thinking about not thinking too much ☺)).  Funny!

So much to see at Wong Tai Sin Temple

My fortuneteller

The colors were vibrant which are typical of a Taoist Temple

After getting our fortune told, it was time to say goodbye to Loretta and her husband and get back to our eating itinerary. 

We were off to Lei Yue Mun,, a fish market that few tourists know about and where we choose our fish and the restaurant cooks it.   It is a short channel that separates Hong Kong and Kowloon.  The Kowloon side is famous for its seafood market.  The channel is an important passage to the South China Sea. Loretta, took us to the station which was in East Kowloon.  From there we were to take the bus but instead took a taxi, which dropped us in front of the market 5 minutes later.  Wow, what a market.  Susan has been there before with her foodie husband Ray so she knew exactly which fish market to go to pick our fish.  We got some unexpected help from who we thought was a tour guide but ended up being a banker!  He was able to get us a free bag of clams and a very good price on – one whole rock fish, 2 lobster size shrimp, one crab,  and 2 huge scallops for about 60 USD.  The fishmonger was so nice.  If in Hong Kong a must visit.  The name of the seafood store is Yat Loong Sea Food at 38 Hoi Pong Road. Then we went to the restaurant next door which surprisingly had a fab sauvignon blanc from Margaret Valley Australia for a bit over 20 USD and made us a delicious fish dinner.  They also served us with some fresh Chinese broccoli sautéed in garlic.  It was an AMAZING dinner. 

The entrance to the Seafood Market at Lei Yue Mon

In addition to seafood, there were fruit and vegetable stands

The banker negotiating with the fishmonger.  The banker has his arms around the fishmonger.

Our happy fishmonger weighing the fish

The Seafood restaurant that cooked our seafood

The cucumber dish that was so good and was on the house.  They were crisp and gets dipped in a spicy sauce.

The roasted shrimp in garlic and chilies.

Sauteed Chinese brocolli with garlic

Roasted scallops wtih garlic and chilies

Clams sauteed in black bean sauce

Steamed rockfish - the best!

Steamed Crab

Our conscientious and best waiter!

We were to go to the night market but both of us  were exhausted (Susan from trying to “not think to much”) that we took a cab home and called it a night.

Hi Missy, Do You Want a Pedi/Medi, No? Maybe a Watch Then?

Saturday September 19, 2009

Hong Kong and Shenzhen, China

32C and Humid

"Hi Missy, do you want a pedi/mani, No? Maybe a watch then? "is what I heard for about 6 hours straight while doing some major shopping at the Lowu Commercial City Shopping Complex in Shenzhen.  What an experience!

Day 2 in Hong Kong was shopping time.  But not in Hong Kong but in Shenzhen.  I wanted to get some clothes made and my friend Edward who lives in Hong Kong recommended I go to Shenzhen as his wife goes there all the time and gets great things made.  I also got a copy of Shop in Shenzhen by Ellen McNally to help me decide what to do.   I am so glad Edward was able to give me guidance and that I read the book.  Otherwise, it would have been an overwhelming experience.  In this huge 5 story building called LoWu Commercial City are 1000s of shops.  My primary goal was to get clothes made so prior to going I made photocopies of dresses, blouses and slacks that I wanted tailor made to me.

My day started early where I had a substantial breakfast of noodles, dim sum and fruit so that I would have the energy to do some serious shopping.  I then stepped out side from the hotel around 900am, got some more cash at the Citibank, then headed to the East Tsim Sha Tsui station and took the metro one stop to Hung Hom station.  From there I took the train that goes to the border town LoWu.  I'm glad I spent the extra money to take first class because it was not crowded well at least not until Sheung Shui where tons of people from mainland China boarded as they were getting back home.  It seemed that they did not care whether it was first class or not and just got in wherever they wished!  Good thing it was only one stop to the LoWu as otherwise I would have gone crazy with the shouting and the cellphones ringing non-stop!

Hung Hom Station:  Very Modern and Clean

If you go, make sure you take the train to LoWu

Inside the first class cabin

Once off the train the mad rush through customs and immigration begins.  Going through customs in Hong Kong was easy and fortunately, entering China was easy too as there were only about 10 or so foreigners making the border crossing.  It was easy but they do take your temperature before entering China! 

Now entering the Chinese side of immigration

Once I was on the China side, I took extra caution with my belongings as people have told me that pickpockets are abound.  I also did not bring my nice camera as the concierge of the hotel said that it will make me a target.  However, since I got there around 1030am which is opening time, not many people were there and it was very easy to get to LoWu Commercial City as its right in front of the station.  It actually is so big, that you don't think its the shopping center but it is.

Since getting clothes made was my priority, I immediately went to the 5th floor.  Edward's wife Julia recommended Wandan so that is where I went.  She is located inside the Fabric Market and is at stall #48.  Seems Julia called her to let her know I was coming so she was waiting for me!  I showed her the photos of the clothes I wanted to make and after discussion, she took me shopping for fabric.  And thank god for Wandan as there is so much to choose from.  I wanted stretch cotton for the slacks, so she first took me to a fabulous stall that had every color you can think of and of a variety of quality.  I chose the highest quality fabric in dark brown and black and it only cost me about 20 USD!  Then it was off to the silk charmeuse stall and a again a gorgeous selection.  That was a bit more expensive and for 2 blouses, the material cost me about 40 USD.  And finally we went to the silk jersey stall for the dresses and again, it was a bit more expensive but again about 50 USD for 2 dresses!   I also wanted a Caroline Herrera suit copied and made but Wandan had a fabulous collection of wool crepe so just got that from her.  She only charged me about 230 USD to get a wool crepe,silk lined Carolina Herrara suit copied,  2 Lafayette 148 silk charmeuse blouses copied, 2 Lafayette 148 slacks copied, and 2 Diane von Furstenberg dresses copied.  She will have them delivered to my hotel on Monday so if I need any last minute alterations, I can go back and get them done quickly.  One Lafayette 148 blouse is about 250 USD so I definitely got a bargain!

Wandan:  She's having her second baby and it is due near next year's Chinese New Year!

Wandan's shop

The fabric market

After spending about 2 hours with Wandan, I then asked her if she knew of a good tea place as I wanted to get high quality Pu'ra tea.  It is supposed to be very good for you, has no caffeine and was highly recommended by my auto-immune specialist doctor.  Wandan had her friend take me to the place where they get the tea.  I asked for the purest grade Pu'ra tea and from the back, the tea master brought a beautiful box that had the tea that has been aged for about 15 years.  In Japan, that grade tea costs about 200 USD for 0.5 kilos.  He was willing to sell it to me for about 80 USD per 0.5 kilos.  I asked him if I could try it and though he hesitated, he made me a gorgeous cup of the tea.  He went through the ritual of cleaning the tea leaves twice with hot water and then making the tea.  It was the most fragrant Pu'ra tea I've ever had.  I also liked the way they were serving it so asked if I could see some of the tea sets.  Again from the back of the store, he brought a gorgeous set made from egg shell porcelain and hand painted.  I've seen them in stores on Nathan Road in Hong Kong and they are all over 3000 Hong Kong dollars (430USD).  After some major bargaining, I got 1.5 kilos of tea and the tea set for 400 USD.  The tea alone would have been 600 USD in Tokyo!

The Tea Man making the precious aged Pu'ra tea

His shop

Then it was time to look for freshwater pearls.  The Shop in Shenzhen book recommended stall #29 in the Jewelry Market.  And I can say it was the best.  The owner also carried Tahitian pearls but the prices were not that great.  But I was able to get 4 gorgeous fresh water pearl necklaces and 3 earrings for about 70 USD. 

Where I bought my pearls:  AC Pearl No. 29

I then spent about another hour or so looking at some of the other stalls.  I did not like the ready made clothes too much and some of the stuff was wild (fake iphones, raunchy lingerie, etc).  I tried taking photos of the fake electronics but a scary looking guy started yelling at me so stopped doing that!  I did find a nice leather bag which is a copy of a Jimmy Choo bag.  The lady wanted 800 HK$  but I insisted on 500 HK$(70USD) and I won.  It's a pretty nice bag and a good copy.  We shall see how long it lasts. 

It was then time to go back.  I did think about getting a mani/pedi or pedi/mani as they call it in Shenzhen but the hygeine was way too questionable for me.  The book "Shop in Shenzhen" recommends getting one done but bring your own alcohol to clean the instruments.  It is still too scary for me but if you must, get a tetanus and hepatitus vaccine.

LoWu Commercial City can be overwhelming!  But they accept HK$$.  If using RMB, make sure you get it exchanged on the Hong Kong side cuz fake money is getting popular in Shenzhen.

They sell almost everything including raunchy underwear.

Outside LoWu Commercial City

The train station at the border

I then took the train back to Hong Kong where again many noisy mainland folks got into first class but then they all left at the next stop.  The ride back was uneventful and I was back in my hotel around 6pm.  Since I did not have lunch, decided to walk to Harbor City Ocean Center for an early dinner and a much needed drink.  Everyone was out shopping.  And unlike Japan, the stores were full of people! The views were fabulous but again the sky was hazy.  The smog in Hong Kong is pretty bad.  I have tentative plans to go to the Peak tomorrow morning.  Hopefully the view will be good and the smog will go away.

He makes a good mojito 

A fab Mojito

Star Ferry returning from Hong Kong Island:  It was a smoggy day

Which made for a great sunset

As the evening turned dark, I walked back to the hotel, went to check out Chung King Hotels but found it a bit creepy inside, so went straight to the hotel to relax and wait for my BFF Susan to arrive from NYC!

Nathan Road, early evening

Inside the Chungking Mansions - where one can find a bed, money exchange, haircut, you name it.  Was taking photos and 3 guys were giving me the eye.  Didn't think it was a good thing to do so left.

What's Happening Hong Kong?

Friday Sept.19, 2009

Hong Kong, China (yes it's China now)

32C, Hazy Sunny Skies

"Hong Kong.  The most cosmopolitan city in the world in my opinion."  That's what I said years ago when I visited this city when it was still a "British" colony.  Fast forward to 2009, I decided at the last minute to go to Hong Kong for "silver week holidays".   You see, in Japan, 3 holidays happen to occur on a Mon, Tues, Wed, of September this year.  Originally I was to explore more of Japan but oh so expensive!  But as an American Airlines FF, found out that with only 30000 miles I could get a round trip biz class ticket on Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong from Tokyo so Hong Kong is where I shall go.

To be honest, I am skeptical on whether I would enjoy it.  My Hong Kong is the "In the Mood for Love" Hong Kong...   The John LeCarre - Honourable Schoolboy Hong Kong.  The Hong Kong that my father spoke about where he bought his coveted Rolex watch.  The New Territories were wilderness.  Shenzhen did not exist or at least there were no factories nor skyscrapers in Shenzhen!

So off I went today to Hong Kong.  The biz class flight on Cathay was fantastic.  We flew over Kyushu and parts of Taiwan and 4.5 hours later was descending into Hong Kong.  But what a different experience from my last trip where the descent was scary in that the PanAm 747 I was in seemed to just miss apartment buildings and electrical lines and dropped onto the runway. This time the plane made a gradual landing into a modern, clean and very Singapore like environment.  Yes, the jutting mountains were still there, but everything is so new!  New bridges, highways and very fancy high rises.  That is what I saw when landing into Hong Kong. 

Disappointing.  What happened to the energy and edginess of Hong Kong??  I experienced some of it while figuring out how to get to the Sheraton on Nathan Road which is where I am staying.  The train seemed to me most efficient (24 min to city center) but the lines were so long!  So decided to take the "airport limo bus".  Now that was  a Hong Kong experience which I remember.  Chaotic but the job gets done.  But during the drive, all I saw was modern skyscrapers and perfect landscaping.  Not the Hong Kong I remember.  But then we went into a tunnel and when we exited the tunnel into Kowloon there was the Hong Kong I remember.  Total chaos with lots of energy and vitality.   I even saw a difference in our bus driver.  On the highway through the "new" Hong Kong, he was driving very conservatively.  But when we entered Kowloon,he was a madman!  I luved it but did fasten my seat belt!  Weird, cuz from the airport to the beginning of the "tunnel" , he was a demure and very polite driver.  Once into Kowloon, he became aggressive and impatient.  And Kowloon was just as crazy and energetic as I remembered it.  The only difference was that instead of the Union Jack, the 60th anniversary of China banner was flying everywhere.

I checked into the Sheraton and after packing, getting organized, etc, it was 7pm.  Walked the area a bit and found it interesting that local Chinese peddlers did not exist anymore and have been replaced by Sri Lankans, Pakistanis and Indians. Wild!

Cathay Pacific Flight 501, my view of the cabin from Seat !5A.  As expected, it was very clean with exceptional service and the toilets had flowers and products from Dermalogica.

My first view of Hong Kong (I think as it could be mainland China) from the plane.

Hong Kong unrecognizable:  View from the bus

Kowloon: But the more things change, the more things remain the same.

I'm off to Shenzhen tomorrow morning.  My first experience.  I'm going to have a good nights sleep as I will need lots of stamina to tackle the shopping!