The Snowlady Chronicles

Shopping!

 January 2, 2014

Shanghai, China

Cold Blue Skies

 

Last full day in Shanghai was spent....SHOPPING.  I didn't go crazy as I restrained myself.  My hotel - The Intercontinenal Ruijin - is in the heart of the French Concession and was built in the early 1900s.  Prominent Shanghai businessman Henry Morris' house is here and during the heyday, it was the place to be scene.  Later, during the revolution, the building itself was the communist headquarters for Mao Tse Tung and also a State Guest House. 

So for the last day, decided to do some leisurely shopping which I found can be challenging in Shanghai. 

First stop was the quaint Tianzifang, which was an art, crafts and trendy cafe enclave, but is quickly facing the same demise as SOHO in NYC and has become a tourist attraction.  I discovered here that (ok i'm generalizing) many Chinese LOVE taking photos.. more than the Japanese!  However, I was able to find a few gems of a store including a fascinating art gallery.  The buildings are "shikumen" and the stores are small.  It's a fun place to visit, but try visiting early or on a non-holiday.

Loved this toy store

Milk and egg store

Toilet restaurant.  Really

This building was the former pharmacy of the French Concession

Lots of tourists:  I think I was the only shopper!

Here you can also find a museum dedicated to Ren Weiyin - a very talented post Impressionist painter.  His story is inspirational as he was sentenced to hard labor during the cultural revolution and after the hard labor was only allowed to make shoes. 

I ended up buying 2 coats, cashmere scarf and a silk scarf for about 150 USD.  I think I did well!

After dropping off my purchases at my hotel room, took off immediately to explore the French Concession.  A lot of it was demolished but still many buildings remain.  I ended up not buying anything (edit, did!) but amazed at how many independent stores, tailors and now mega malls dot the area.

Store after store

An original art deco movie theater which still is a movie theater and also home to Shanghai Tang, where (I forgot!) I bought jewelry.

Love that the streets are tree lined.  Must be gorgeous in the spring.

Next time, I'm going to get one of these made for me.

And the most amazing mall I've ever scene.  Every high end designer you can think of in one mall.  This place used to be where one can buy cheap fakes!  How things have changed. It's on Huaihai street formerly known as Avenue Joffre.  I can't remember the name but its like ICBC (something like that).  Unbelievable - chanel, vuitton, gucci, you name it, it's here and it's 5 stories!

I now understand why people come to Shanghai to shop!  Love that they are not preserving many of the buildings and cultural areas.  I'm definitely coming back for a) clothes to be made b) cooking lessons and c) exploring more of Hangzhou with Jerry

Shanghai Holiday

New Years Eve, 2014

Shanghai and Hangzhou, China

Smoggy in Shanghai, Sunny in Hangzhou

 

Decided while in Beijing to spend New Years in Shanghai.  Idea was to go before my visa expires but of course, the law changed so I ended up paying over 300$ for a visa.  However, its now good for 10 years with multiple entry so I guess I'm going to have to go again!

The flight from Shanghai was uneventful and very convenient as its only a 3hr or so flight from Tokyo with an one hour time difference. 

Once I arrived, I got my baggage, went through customs all within 10 minutes!  So efficient and quite a different feel compared to Beijing.

A real nice gentleman dressed in a black suit picked me up and whisked me away to the gorgeous Intercontinental Ruijin.  A very unique hotel in that it consists of historical buildings nestled in a park away from the hustle and bustle of Shanghai.

My hotel room:  scored an upgrade!

View from my patio

The club room

Resident cats

I found out from my seatmate on my flight that the famous W. W. Chan tailors has an excellent outpost in Shanghai and is only a 2 minute walk from the hotel!  Since the smog was so horrible in Shanghai, so bad that the hotel advised not to go out for a walk, I decided to go to the tailors as my first stop.  Tony the concierge also highly recommended the tailor and actually walked me over to make sure I did not get lost.  Now that is service!

I spent about 2 hours there selecting material and design for my suit.  After a meticulous session of getting my measurements, a distinguished looking genteman came running to where I was and got in a very animated discussion wtih my salesman.  Then he turned to me and spoke in an elegant and perfect British English that sending the suit to Japan will not work because of customs issues.  Basically, they did not want me to spend monies with their service and not be able to get it sent in Japan without much hassle.  I very much appreciated the honesty and although one can say I wasted 3 hours or so at the shop, I learned a lot and will definitely consider getting a suit there when in Hong Kong or Shanghai (of course, with better planning!)

Since the smog is suffocating (literally), I decided to spend the rest of the afternoon and evening inside the gorgeous hotel and finish my last book for 2014 - David Mitchell's "The Bone Clocks".

Woke up today around 530am on NY eve to escape the smoggy Shanghai and go to Hangzhou.  Exciting because I am taking my first bullet train in China.  Took a taxi (very cheap) to the Shanghai HongQuai train station...

First impression---- HUMONGOUS!  Makes Shinjuku, Grand Central and Victoria Station look puny.  And no clocks anywhere which I found to be weird for a train station.  I can't imagine what the train station is like during Chinese New Years!

It was very easy to navigate but got my first experience in China's famous travel aggressiveness.  One guy grabbed my jacket and pulled me aside so he can get ahead of me in line!  So it was a bit chaotic to get through the gate and onto the train.

The line

Scene from the train

Train was packed but clean, but not as luxurious as I thought it will be.  However, it left exactly on time.  And we arrived on time at Hangzhou station where Jerry my guide was promptly waiting for me and whisked me to his own taxi.

Turns out Jerry is quite an entrepreneur.  Not only does he have his own taxi, he taught himself English (yes, no school, just by himself) so he can become a tour guide, and a broker between local artisans and international collectors.  He was TERRIFIC and I highly recommend him.  And it seems everyone in Hangzhou knows Jerry.

Our first stop was the home of the most famous person (after Mr.Ma the alibaba founder) in Hangzhou - Hu Xue Yan.  At one point he was the richest man in China and its pretty obvious he was quite wealthy while touring his grand house.  Unfortunately, politics and the British were a bit too much for him so he ended up losing much of his wealth.  But his pharmacy still exists and he is still remembered as one of the most generous man in Hangzhou's history.

Here he is

Its about the details in his house

During the cultural revolution, the housekeeper hid this original carving behind a concrete wall

The house is like a Forbidden city

Special entry way for a young concubine (he had lots!)

Moi, at his most beautiful garden

Next stop was the most famous temple in Hangzhou the Lin Yin temple.  It is quite a stunning and large temple with beautiful grounds that are dotted with stone carvings of many different Buddhas.  In one section, there is a Tibetan, Mongolian and "Han" Buddha which prompted Jerry to say they all are however, Chinese...

Gorgeous carvings of Buddha.  Many were destroyed during the cultural revolution but some survived as the governor declared a "safe zone" for this area.

My favorite Buddha - Happy Buddha!

So many Buddha's are housed in this temple.  Felt very peaceful

After walking around the temple, it was time to go to Tea Mountain.  Hangzhou is known for the exclusive Dragon Well tea that is indigenous to the region.  We stopped at one of Jerry's favorite tea houses on top of the mountain.  I had a cup of their best tea that was harvested in May.  It was very delicate and delicious!  I enjoyed the tea with locally roasted peanuts that was also delicous.  I ended up buying 125 grams of the tea as it is special to the area, locally grown and loaded with anti-oxidants.  Interestingly, the richest families of the region are now the tea growers.  You should see their houses - very fancy.  Probably was unthinkable 30 or so years ago before the tea became popular.

Tea everywhere!

Dragon well tea is expensive because not all tea leaves can be used.  Has to be the young ones like below.

Different grades of tea leaves

Trying the highest grade.  One has to wait for the tea leaves to sink to the bottom before drinking

And the best roasted peanuts ever!

After tea, it was time for lunch.  When I told Jerry I wanted to eat good local food, he did not disappoint.  I had delicious fresh sauteed cabbage, mushroom in a special sauce, locally braised fish that was delicate and fried rice with a dried vegetable.  And my drink was a purple potato drink!  Delish!  And STUFFED.  Of course, forgot the name of the restaurant but Jerry can tell you.

Ingredients for my drink

Delish!  Have to find the potatoes in Tokyo

Simple but Delish!

First time:  Fried rice with dried vegies.  Delish!

Mushroom with a special sauce - delish!

Really Really Delish fish:  The chef (she) needs to start a cooking school.  I'll be there!

Duck ---  not for me

Next stop,  shopping.  Hangzhou is also known for silk, especially duvets filled with cocoon silk.  They are so light and smooth!  So I bought one and also a duvet cover in gorgeous silk.  Since I was with Jerry, he told me that the duvet will be "free" if I buy a cover .  What a deal!  Especially since I got a duvet that has 2 layers so in the summertime, one can be removed so it won't be too warm.

After shopping it was time for a toilet break and with Jerry it means stopping at the Shangri La hotel which is gorgeous and happens to be in front of the West Lake which is a man made lake from over 1000 years ago and is one of the most important inspirations for Chinese garden designers so is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Jerry dropped me off for me to walk along the lake on my own.   Unfortunately, I did not get any inspiration as it was PACKED with people.  But leave it to Jerry for another surprise.  After showing me some important buildings around the lake, he took me to an exclusive hotel (of course, can't remember the name) but it is where Mao Tse Tung met Ho Chin Minh.  What a spectacular view of the West Lake from the hotel.  It is so secluded that one has an entire beautiful view of the West Lake to his/herself.  

Photos of West Lake

Photos from the secret hotel

 

Last stop was walking the old district including visiting Hu Xue Yan's pharmacy which is still in business.  And as a final bonus,  Jerry took me to the flower and herb market which is someplace I will be going to everyday if I lived in Hangzhou!

Baby sitting on Happy Buddha

Reishi -  fungus that is good for you

Mr. Yan's pharmacy.  Still going

Flower market

Ginseng

Hangzhou is known as the backyard of Shanghai, but from my short visit, it is a gem of China.  I can't wait to go again!

And last but not least, Jerry!

The Real Beijing Under Clear Blue Skies

November 24, 2014 Monday

Beijing, China

Clear Crisp Blue Skies

 Well, started this post in Beijing and am just finishing it now.  Today is Dec 6 and I'm back home in Tokyo. Had a great time in China (first time as a tourist) and the trip made me eager to learn more about the history.  Even today, one can see the impact of the Cultural Revolution if you pay a lot of attention.  For example, the parents of my guide in Xi'an, Susan, met because her father was sent to Xi'an to teach (he was a doctor).  And you see remnants of China's rich history everywhere.  Looking forward to my next trip which will be for New Years and to Shanghai. 

And here's what I did on my last day in Beijing.  Did a rickshaw tour of the last Hutongs that are fast disappearing in Beijing.  My last day was a glorious day.  Bright blue skies!  And beautiful clouds!  Here are some pics.

Was greeted by a Hutong dog

We visited a traditional house that belongs to a upper middle class family

And finally saw bicycles!

Mug shot of our rick shaw driver against the "happening" section of the hutongs.  Local restaurants are now chi chi bars and nightclubs.

The old post office

My Beijing guide Lily in front of the post office

Singing lessons

The Drum Tower

Babies were out playing with the traditional pants where there is a "hole" strategically located for bathroom time

Rare site in Beijing:  Protest against being forcibly moved from their homes in the hutong

Most homes do not have a toilet so they use the public toilet.  At night they use a pot like what the lady is carrying.

Old bicycle

Old car?

Beijing at her best

Terracotta Warriors

 Monday November 24, 2014

Beijing, China

Sunny, Cold and Blue Sky!

 

The weather gods cooperated yesterday so was able to go to the main objective of my trip - Terracotta Warriors - with no rain albeit cold conditions.  And the warriors did not disappoint.  But you really need to listen and learn about the history to really enjoy the experience.  There are over 6000 warriors and horses that were buried to protect the tomb and spirit of China's first Emperor Qin  - the Emperor who united and found China in 200 BC timeframe - so the warriors are over 2000 years old.  Each warrior has unique features and a signature of the  artisan that made it.  And they are tall!  I believe the average size is about 180 cm.  The craftsman ship is amazing.  And many are still not discovered.  The tomb of Emperor Qin is known as it is a hill but no one has dared excavate it as legend has it there are many deathtraps leading to the tomb. Of course, I took 100s of pix and here is a taste. 

The site was discovered by a farmer digging for a well in 1974.  He now is famous and met Bill Clinton (and moi!). When meeting Bill Clinton, he practiced saying How are you and the response Me too, only to say WHo are you?  Bill Clinton said "I'm the husband of this beautiful woman" and He replied "me too!"  "chuckles".  The farmer was illiterate but now is a celebrity.   Today, he sits at the gift store sleeping most of the time, awaken to sign souvinir books.  Which of course, I bought one with him signing it in front of me.   Below is the sight of the well.  If they dug a few inches away, would have missed it.

Chuckle break

When the Qin dynasty was overthrown, the underground "home" to the warriors were burnt, so ashes can be found in some areas.  The warriors were protected by a ceiling made of mats and wood and walls made from bricks.  Yes bricks existed in 200 BC. It is thought where the ceilings are intact, the warriors are in good condition underneath.  But to not damage the warriors, archaelogists are painstakingly unearthing them which takes years so most are still underground. Hard to believe though for 1000s of years, people were growing food just 5 meters over the burial ground.

Details of the warriors can be seen at the museum including some of the color

From the facial features, one can surmise which part of China the warrior came from

Look at the detail!

Bronze chariots were also found near the site.  The horses were intact as they were solid but the chariots were in 1000s of pieces and had to be put together.  It is believed the chariots were built so Emperor Qin could safely go to the other side of the world

And of course, I did some shopping,  Xi'an as I mentioned in an earlier post is well known for arts and craftsmenship.  High quality lacquer furniture is built here so I am having a small custom made cabinet made along with 2 terracotta warriors in local clay.  It will take about 4 months to arrive in Japan but really looking forward to it as I got it for over 80% less than would have cost me in Japan

If you go to Xi'an in November, you will notice pomegranates EVERYWHERE!!

And last but not least mugshot selfe of me and my wonderful guide Susan at the Terracotta warrior museum

Xi'an: Where it all started

 November 23, 2014

Xi'an, China

Rainy and Chilly

 I got up at 430am yesterday to get ready to take my early AM flight to Xi'an which is one of the most important cities historically.  This is where China started with Emperor Qin in 200 BC or so.  This is where the Silk Road starts and ends.   I've been intrigued about this area since my BFF and travel buddy Sandra highly recommended it and after seeing a fabulous exhibit of the silk road in Brussels, Belgium. 

The Air China flight was uneventful except that they have a fabulous lounge and the service was impeccable.  I flew over the mountains but once over the mountain we were in clouds so couldn't see much.

FIrst impression of Xi'an?  Huge.  Huge airport and big city.  I don't know what I was thinking but there is over 3million people living here with a thriving agriculture, high tech and manufacturing industries.  Susan, my guide greeted me at the airport and whisked me away to start the tour before checking into the hotel.  Fortunately, traffic is nothing like Beijing so driving was enjoyable.

We were first to go to the wall surrounding the city.  BUT something was going on so we decided to go to the Muslim district and the Mosque.  Yes a mosque in China and it's one of the oldest.  AFter all, Xi'an as I mentioned earlier is the beginning of the silk road. No one is exactly sure when it all started but most historians believe the Muslim community began to thrive in the 7th century.  People including me tend to forget China for a very long time was very welcoming to immigrants and folks from all different religions.

The Muslim Quarter is fascinating.  If I had time, I could spend a whole day there.  Susan told me not to try the street food and I didn't but it looked delicious!  If I had time I would have tried a few and if I got sick, would have time to recover.  But since I'm flying today back to Beijing today, decided to not chance it.

We also went thru the central market in the Muslim quarter which leads to Great Mosque where the prayer rooms are facing Mecca.  The Mosque is a fascinating blend of Chinese and Islamic infrastructure.  It is a very peaceful, quiet and gentle place in the middle of the hubbub of the Muslim quarter.  It reminds one that Islam is a religion of peace and yet again, some people abuse and misinterpret the teachings in the name of power and violence.

After the Mosque it was time to go out again to the hubbub and head to Defachang, an over 100 year old institution that specializes in dumpling.  Xi'an is where wheat is grown so "rice" is not a traditional staple.  So bread, noodles, dumplings are very popular traditional dishes. I have to say go for the experience, don't except dumplings that will "wow" you but given I don't eat pork, sheep, lamb, they were very accomodating in creating veggie heavy dumplings.

After an elegant sufficiency of food, time to attempt the city wall again.  This time we went to the East section where there was no one.  What a difference!  The city wall was built in the 1200s by the Ming Dynasty and has recently been restored.  Susan said the government is paying folks living inside the wall to move out so that the city inside the wall becomes more of a shopping city.  Of course, they will leave the Mosque there. 

After having the wall basically to ourselves, Susan took me to the Tangbo Art Museum which is really a showcase for art work done by students and professors from the local universities.  Xi'an is also known for the artwork and music.  Susan said the music director for the Olympics came from Xi'an.  I got a great tour and lecture of the history of art created by the "farmers", the history of Chinese painting and calligraphy.  After all, it all started here.  I even had a hands on calligraphy class.  AND of course, I did some damage and bought 2 paintings from the professors of the local universities.

Then it was time to call it a day where I checked into the fanciest Crowne Plaza I've ever been in where I got an upgrade to beautiful suite.  Spent the evening, sorting through photos and reflecting so far on my short but culturally enriching trip.

Flew over the mountains

Pix from the Muslim Quarter:  Kiwis on the left and cute local persimmons on the right.  Kiwis came from China I found out!! And had to try those cute persimmons.  very mushy and sweet. 

Muslim specialty:  Bread

Pomegranates, dates and walnuts were in season and everywhere

This tofu snack looked delish!

Kebab!

Steamed cake

Make nut brittle and candly

The Great Mosque

Koran

The Bell Tower which is near the dumpling place.  In the old days the Bell rang at 6am so villagers can enter the city to sell their stuff and the drums (at the drum tower) were played in the evening to announce closing the city

View of the city inside the wall

Dumplings!

 

The city wall

View of the moat from the wall

Old home insides the wall being demolished for "shopping centers"

From the Tangbo Art Museum:  "Paper" puppets made from Horse skin

Writing "janet" in chinese

I bought these 2 paintings...

 

 

 

 

The Forbidden City, Tianamen and The Great Wall

Friday November 22, 2014

Beijing, China

Cold, Hazy but Blue Skies in the Afternoon

 (This post is delayed a day due to Internet censorship issues)

Since I went to bed around 830pm getting up at 5am was a cinch to get ready for a fully packed day.  Worked out for about 40 minutes at the fabulous gym at the Intercontinental Financial District, had a good breakfast of congee and veggies and of course a Latte, and then off to a full day exploring. 

Met up with Ms. Lily and my driver around 820am.  20 minute delay as Ms. Lily got caught in Beijing trafiic.   But  no worries, did not make a difference.  First stop - Tianamen Square.  The place was packed with many senior Chinese folks as they all wanted to go see Chairman Mao in his mausoleum.  First improession,  wow!  huge!  and very Communist!  The security was tight but my communist comment comes from the layout and the building architecture.  We did not spend much time there but glad I went.  I, of course, was imagining the student uprising and what it must have been for that lone gentleman standing in front of the tank...

We walked across Tianamen to enter the Forbidden City, the largest palace complex in the world and the most preserved.  One realizes how culturally rich China was when one enters the Forbidden City.  It is more obvious to me now that, China influenced culture, art and architecture throughout Asia.  I forgot I was in Beijing and felt like I was visiting inside one of the beautiful traditional Chinese paintings you see in museums worldwide.  It is so grand it is hard to describe in words.  Thank god the British and French did not destroy it.  And the attention to detail, oh my!  My recommendation is to take your time looking at the details when visiting.  I was fortunate to have Ms. Lily who majored in Chinese history who pointed out the details.  Ms. Lily said she had another IBMer as a client and was a retiree from IBM Canada.  He spent a week at the Forbidden City.  I now understand how one can do that as there is so much detail to explore.  I only had about 1.5 hours but if I had the time or lived in Beijing, I'll be visiting frequently to learn the hidden secrets of the beauty of Forbidden City.

We then took off for the 2 hour drive to the Great Wall.  We had a wonderful lunch at a family owned restaurant near the wall of local Beijing cuisine.  I had one of the best kung pao chicken ever and a very delicious barbecued local trout with stir fried local fresh cabbage.  The trout was one of the best barbecued fish I've ever had.  It was coated in unique spices that definitely had some cumin, pepper, black beans and not sure what else.  So far the best meal in China.

Then it was time for a long drive to one of less touristy part (Mutianyu) of the Great Wall of China which was first built during the Qin dynasty (200 BC or so!).  It's been my dream (and in my bucket list) to visit the Great Wall, but I always hesitated because I thought I'd be disappointed.  My good friend Luis told me about his trip which was a section not opened to tourist andl life threatening (one mistake and you fall 1000 of meters) but his photos were magical which added even a higher expectation of what to expect.  Well, thanks to Ms. Lily, I was not disappointed.  Folks, photos do not do it justice.  It's an amazing feat of human effort.  I cannot imagine the hardships it took to build this wall which is over 6000 kilometers long.  Unfortunately with my bad knee I did not do the 2 hour or so hike but did go to 2 stations while huffing and puffing.  I have no idea how the guards got there and survived during the oppressive summer heat and bitter cold in the winter.

After soaking in the majestic wall, blue skies and fresh air, Ms. Lily took me to a cloisonne factory that has been in business for over 400 years.  They still make cloisonne by hand so I learned about the process and of course, ended up shopping!

After a long day it was time to drive back to Beijing and I discovered what it's like to experience Beijing traffic.  NOT FUN!!  I could never drive in Beijing.  There are 6million cars in this place!  Anyhow, I made it back to the hotel in time for a nice salad for dinner and then a soothing hot stone massage.

Tomorrow I'm off to Xi'An! 

Tianamen Square

Tianamen Security Guard

Moi at Tianamen with the Parliament building in the background

Facing the Forbidden City

Entrance to the Forbidden City.  The painting of Chairman Mao is restored often so its always perfect

We are now inside the Forbidden City

Details of the doors.  The gold knobs are a symbol of royalty

Gorgeous!

It's about the detail!

Shadows

I want these.  The more figurines the more important the house

Shadows

Original sundial

The Imperial Garden.  Again need to come back during Peony season

The talented Ms Lily took this picture.  No it's not a cathedral but a library located inside the Imperial Garden

 

Leaving the Forbidden City

A different view from the outside

And blue skies with the last of fall in Beijing!

On the way to the Great Wall the driver stopped to show me the IBM building

Which is very near the Water Building where the swimming events took place during the Olympics

And Ai Wei Wei's birdnest. 

The best barbecued trout I've ever had, demolished

Entrance to the Great Wall and you can see it in the background if you squint

AND it's HOME to Burger King!  WHAT!!

Proof that I was there

Just a few of the 100s of pix I took of the wall

See that tower??  The wall is there too on that steep ridge

Would love to learn how to make cloisonne vases but it's time consuming.  Learned the base is copper so could survive a drop

Fabulous day with Ms. Lily.  Selfie at the Great Wall

 

 

The Summer Palace in Winter

November 20, 2014

Beijing, China

Cold Hazy (or is it Smog?)

So instead of taking Thanksgiving off, I've decided to do a long weekend in China (this will be the third year in a row that I am missing Thanksgiving!).  Given I will only have 5 days, decided to do Beijing and Xi'an to see the Terra Cotta Warriors which is on my bucketlist. 

Arrived in hazy (smoggy? but not sure as my eyes weren't hurting) around noon.  First impression, everything is over the top!  Huge airport but very efficient.  My wonderful tour guide from my favorite travel agent Trails of Indochina, Lily greeted me and whisked me away efficiently to our first tour - The Summer Palace.  The Palace was a romping ground for the Emperors and Empresses to escape the oppressive heat of Beijing.  I've seen photos of it, but you've got to see it in person to feel the grandness and beauty.  I only saw the highlights (spent 2 hours) but one can easily spend a whole day.  The entire landscape is a Chinese painting coming to life. 

I visited it on an early winter day but would love to go back in the spring to see all the flowers (especially the peonies) in bloom.  Although Empress Cixi (Empress Dragon) spent monies earmarked for the Navy on the Palace which resulted in tragic consequences in China, she did leave an incredible masterpiece which is a testament to China's rich history in art and landscaping.  It's a must see when in Beijing.

Leaving Japan

Is it a dog, a unicorn or a dragon?

The Looooong Corridor

Marble Boat

This lake was man made!