Sunday October 28, 2012
HCM, Vietnam
Hot and Humid but Nothin Like Tokyo in Summer
So, here I am in again. One of my favorite countries in the world. But for the first time, I'm in HCM - Ho Chin Minh, formerly known as Saigon. First impression, totally more laid back and less "crazy" than Hanoi. Don't get me wrong... I LUV Hanoi, but was surprised at the wide streets, boulevards, and less craziness in traffic than in Hanoi. And OMG! Chanel, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Hugo Boss, so much money! It really is not what I expected. I expected Taipei in the 60s, Tokyo in 60s, etc. This is a happening city where one can get everything but..... McDonalds. Not the "Saigon" my father told me about.
I arrived Saturday around 2pm after the "Worst" treatment ever from "immigration" officials to a foreigner leaving a country. Got to HCM and was met by a Trails of Indochina representative who whisked me away thru visa control ( they arranged for my Visa), immigration, and got my bags, which meant I was out of the airport within 20 minutes of arrival. Got to the Intercontinental, which upgraded me to the Club level and then told me I was in a corner suite. SWEET!. The folks from the Intercontinental in Saigon, are the BEST staff I've ever met in ANY Intercontinental. The folks from ANA Intercontinental in Tokyo could learn a few tips.
Anyhoo, so for the first nite, I basically just gelled and then booked 3 spa treatments. I've been suffering from headaches for the past 3 days. So I booked a Lotus and Sesame scrub, hot stone massage and scalp treatment. 4hrs later, I was a new person. No more headache, went straight to bed and fell asleep at 8pm and only woke up to the arrival of Sandra, my BFF and travel buddy. She arrived around 11pm after a stressful trip (mechanical probs which almost made her miss her connecting flight to HCM. She made it, we broke open the wine in the hotel, toasted our re-union and fell asleep!
Unfortunately, due to jetlag, Sandra was up at 4am (but never heard her as her room was in the other end of the suite) and I ended up waking up around 530am instead of sleeping in. So after a workout, we had breakfast at the Market Restaurant (free to Ambassador members) which was fabulous!! I had Pho, fresh coconut water (can't get it in Japan!) and fresh veggies. Sandra had a fresh omelet and fruit. We both were VERY impressed with the spread. Then we were off to our tour.
We got picked up by our wonderful guide Khan from Trails of Indochina at 830am to start our ½ day or so tour of HCM.
First stop was the former Presidential Palace aka “White House” where the Presidents of South Vietnam resided before the defeat. I still remember the images from magazines of Viet Cong tanks blowing past the gates and entering the palace. The palace was built in 1962 after the former building which was an ornate French style building built by the French colonialist was bombed
The first President, President Diem , ordered the construction of a new building which was built by a Vietnamese architect who studied modern architecture. It’s a classic 1960s style building. Unfortunately, Diem was assassinated and did not live to see the completion of the building.
My impressions, quite grand and is living proof of the abuses the leadership of South Vietnam committed. I’ve been to Ho Chi Minh’s house a couple of times in Hanoi where it is pretty austere and plain. He slept in a small bedroom with a twin bed. Contrast that with the living quarters of the South Vietnam leaders who had lavish bedrooms, reception rooms, dining room, gambling rooms and a rooftop party room with a helicopter on standby for rescues.
Khan patiently told us about the history of Vietnam but it is clear that the abuses of the former leaders (esp Diem) are fresh in everyone’s mind. For example, the introduction of the guillotine, persecution of the Buddhists, etc.
We also learned from Khan about the extensive HCM tunnels. Quite an amazing feat by Ho Chin Minh and General Giap which led to the defeat of South Vietnam and a dark chapter in American History. Not even 20 million gallons of agent orange, 100s of thousands of US troops could defeat the determination to unify the country.
The "Presidential Palace"
The Formal Dining Room in Gold. Gold is common in restaurants in Vietnam and it is supposed to stimulate appetite.
Despite its history, the building is a magnificent example of 1960s architecture
The Lavish Reception Room decorated in Vietnamese Lacquer
View from the Presidential Palace includes Vietnam's tallest building
And replicas of the Viet Cong tanks that stormed the palace
And the infamous gate
Replica of the US helicopter used to transport the South Vietnamese leaders and the red circles are where Viet Cong bombs landed. The pilot of the plane that dropped the bombs became and Air Vietnam pilot.
Typewritera and Telex in the basement
After visiting the palace, we went to the Notre Dame cathedral whose ringing bells we can hear from our hotel room where mass was being conducted in English. We then went to the Post Office which I found to be more impressive especially since Gustav Eiffel designed it!
The Post Office
Alot of wedding photos were taken in front of the office
The phone booth inside the Post Office
Interior of the Post Office
After that, it was a short visit to the local market, which both Sandra and I love but refrained on shopping as we were going to Danang and knew we would do a lot of shopping over there.
Scenes from the Market
Soft Shell Crabs
Snails?
Banana Blossom: I've got to have my banana blossom salad!
Lotus Roots
Water Spinach
Luv the way the pineapples are carved
Men resting after shopping
We then left for Chinatown to go to an ornate Tao temple which was quite an oasis to the hustle and bustle of the Chinatown section of HCM. We learned from Khan that Vietnam experienced a huge influx of Chinese during the 17th century so have integrated well into the Vietnamese society and is contributing tremendously to the economic growth of Vietnam.
On our way to Chinatown
The Gorgeous Temple, Home to Goddess of the Sea
Incense, including coiled incense hanging from the ceiling
Goddess of the Sea
These carvings survived the French War, American War and Chinese War
Sleeping Tuk Tuk driver and Khan to the left
We had a wonderful driver. I can't imagine driving thru this traffic.
Our last stop was the museum of traditional medicine. Off the beaten track, but highly recommended. The building itself if magnificent and was created by a man who collected and preserved the ancient art of herbal medicine
Traditional Medicine
Sandra dispensing herbal medicine
We then headed back to the hotel as our tour ended but not after congratulating Khan as his wife gave birth to a healthy baby boy. So we would be able to see him tomorrow, but we really enjoyed his company.
Sandra and I then just took a bathroom break at our hotel, and headed out to do some window shopping. I almost bought a 2000$ piece of artwork but backed out. We then went out to the rooftop bar at the Rex hotel which played “lounge” music in the background but was nice. I was amazed at the number of designer stores popping up in Vietnam. Cartier, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc. can all be found. NO McDonald’s though!
The rest of the evening was spent at the ambassador lounge in the hotel where we enjoyed some wine and delicious snacks.
Old and New Saigon
View from Top of the Rex
Great photos and travelogue as usual. Love reading them. Makes being an armchair traveler very real. Wendy Thompson PS Say hi to my sister for me! She looks like a magical wizard in the costume.
Posted by: Wendy Thompson | October 29, 2012 at 09:56 PM