Saturday March 5, 2011
Rio De Janeiro
Rain, rain, rain
Thanks to the American college boys who are on spring break, I only got about 3 hours of sleep as they returned from partying drunk and decided to continue their partying along the hallway where our room is and then into their rooms. Anyhow, after tossing and turning for about 30 minutes, got up around 3am to try and do some catch-up work only to find the Internet not working. So ended up starting a new book and at 7am hauled my butt to the spa and worked out for an hour. Sandra ended up joining me at the gym 30 minutes laters. We met up again at the lounge for breakfast and slowly got ready for the activity of the day which is a trip to Santa Teresa..... in POURING rain. It's been raining on and off since we've been here so have not seen any sun. We're hoping that will change soon!
Getting to Bonde (tram) station that takes us up the hill to Santa Teresa was an adventure in itself. We have a fun cab driver who luved checking out the beautiful girls of Leblon, Ipanema and of course, Copa Cobana on the way to the center of town. In addition, he had to navigate through block parties. Unfortunately, there was a huge block party going on in the center of town so had to drop us off 4 blocks away from the Bonde station. Well, all the books and including the concierge told us not to walk around the center of town during the weekends. We figure there's tons of people enjoying the HUGE block party so we will be OK. I will say I was a bit nervous as the crowds were massive and it seemed we were the only tourists. At one point, the crowds were so thick it was difficult to get thru. Sandra and I agreed to not speak English and use sign language to communicate as we did not want to attract attention on ourselves. Then I found 4 very muscular guys with scary looking tattoos making their way through the crowds in the directions we wanted to go so we followed them until the crowd thinned out where we could continue safely our walk to the Bonde station. Once at the Bonde station, well, huge lines. After an hour in line we debated whether we wanted to do this our not, but decided to wait another 30 minutes while the rain just go heavier. Good thing we waited as just as we were about to leave, the tram arrived. And it was a fun experience! Everyone was in a party mood so a lot of cheering going on as we made our way up the cobblestone hill to Santa Teresa.
The Bonde: Finally Arrived!
We got the last row behind 4 well armed Military Police. As we have to go through the Favelas, the police are on the tram to make sure "nothing happens"
View of the center of town from the Bonde
I love the graffiti in Rio. Especially near the Favelas. Here are some scenes from the Bonde ride
This guy was SO DRUNK
More cool graffiti
We saw alot of half naked guys, gals while walking thru the block party at Central but did not take photos cuz it was a bit scary. But after getting off the tram, we saw some locals (half naked) getting on the tram. Lots of guys dressed as girls too were abundant
Luv these banners. Unrinating in public apparently is a huge problem in Rio. We saw plenty of guys violating the rule and just doing their business against a wall
Santa Teresa is a rough and tumble neigborhood of Rio De Janeiro known for its crumbling 19th century mansions set along windy cobblestone roads. It used to be a very high class neighborhood in the 19th century so the mansions are spectacular albeit deteriorating. The wealthy moved South and artists and bohemians moved in the 60s, 70s. Today it is a rich neighborhood of artists, musicians and people living below the poverty line. Given the economic growth of Rio, this neighborhood continues to get restored which means it also houses one of Rio's best boutique hotels : Hotel Santa Teresa.
Although it was pouring rain, the neighborhood did not disappoint. Impromptu street parties were happening, cute handicraft stores and many cool and divey bars, restaurants.
Hotel Santa Teresa: Very cool boutique hotel. We had a drink or two there.:))
Impromptu party in front of Bar do Mineiro: one of Rio's best loved botecos -spot for a cold drink and local food. So crowded so we did not go in.
Everyone in the town was in party mood. However, unlike the block parties, this won was a true neighborhood party so no wall2wall crowds
Unfortunately, the museums and the Parque das Ruinas ( a former mansion that is now a park with spectacular views) was closed due to Carnival so we missed the historical sights of Santa Teresa. We did however, find a fabulous restaurant that served Amazonian cuisine called Espirito Santa. Highly recommend it if in this area. We had two delicious dishes: collard greens stuffed with shrimp and corn, and tilapia with a plantain sauce. Yum! And I loved their hot oil so much they gave me a jar to take home! Everyone is so generous and nice here. Just luv this place.
Espirito Santa
Collard Greens stuffed with shrimp. The yellow stuff is fresh cornmeal
Tilapia wrapped in collard greens with plantain sauce. Very Good and unusual
Impromptu party in front of Espirito Santa
We took a cab back to our hotel as we DID NOT want to experience that crazy block party in Central. It turned out to be a great idea cuz we saw another part of the town including the Sambadrome getting reading for the Samba school competition and parade. We are going Monday nite! So exciting.
Despite the horrible weather, Sandra and I managed to have lots of fun. We ended the night with a nightcap at the hotel lounge, and we were sound asleep by 9pm!
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