November 2, 2010
Oaxaca, Mexico
Sun and LOT's of It
Woke up at 730am but quite tired as the night before we enjoyed and learned more about Dia de Los Muertos festivities and did not get back until after midnight. Dia de Los Muertos requires a special blog which I will do when I get back to the US as it is truly a very special custom to the people of Oaxaca.
But today was another exciting and full day which we shared with a lovely couple from Toronto - Peter and Audrey. They too are avid travelers and also were affected by the bankruptcy of Mexicana Airlines so like us had to modify their schedule a bit. ( I must have lots of luck with Canada, as lately I've been making new and very special friends and they happen to be from that vast beautiful country!)
Our day started with another scrumptious breakfast at our B&B, Casa Ollin. I am going to miss these breakfasts! Today it was chicken with a black bean sauce sprinkled with Oaxacan Queso Fresco and fresh tortillas. So healthy and filling for our active day today. And the best part is having a lively conversation with fellow travelers while eating our delicious food. Today's topic was the election in the US and it was pretty clear my fellow US travelers share my PoV :)).
My breakfast this morning
Cesar, the owner Judith's brother, picked us up in his van sharply at 9am and off we went to our first destination which is Monte Alban.
Monte Alban is one of the first great cities of Mesoamerica and strategically built on a plateau where the 3 central valleys join: Elta, Ocotlan and Tlacalula. Cesar introduced us to a fabulous guide Mario who was very knowledgeable about the history of Oaxaca and a VERY nice gentleman. The history of Monte Alban is amazing as 3 indigenous groups made a life at this magical site (Mixtecs, Zopotecs and another group during the BC years) but it is famous as an important Zapotec city.
The famous Mexican archaelogist, Caso and Bernal, described the stages of cultural and historical growth into 5 consecutive periods covering 500BC to 1600AD which is when this great city has been abandoned. To go through the history will requires 100s of pages but suffice it to say the ruins are magnificent and takes your breath away. It is so fortunate, the Spaniards who conquered Mexico did not build a cathedral or demolish the place. What is most amazing and what makes the place magical is how advanced the society was in medicine, sports and culture. The layout of the place is mathematically precise and the symbols of the jaquars mouth are carefully placed to reflect sunrise and sundown. It is a must see when visiting Oaxaca. It is one of those special places that take your breath away and if you take time to absorb the place, you cannot help but feel different.
My first view of Monte Alban
The location is breath taking as you have a view of all three valleys and the mountains
The ruins of Monte Alban
The photo does not do it justice. It is breathtaking and I wonder if it is located on an energy source as it is a magical experience.
The ball court, where the loser was executed!
The observatory. Astronomy played an important role in Monte Alban
The carvings show how advanced the society was including in medicine.
View of the Valleys
After Monte Alban we went to Atzompa: pottery village in Oaxaca most famous for the green glazed pottery. Cesar took us to a market where the local artists can sell their creations. I loved the green glazed ceramic pottery. The prices were unbelievably good and the monies go directly to the Artists. The whole town is dotted with artists studios. I bought a water pitcher which a I need and a platter as a gift. Sandra was able to find several things for her house in Cabo.
Sadly, a villager passed away so a funeral procession was happening when we were there.
After Atzompa, we went to a nearby woodcarving town Arrazola where we met Armando Jimenez, from a family of woodcarvers that go back generations. The Jimenez family woodcarvings are famous for their whimsical designs. I found a wood carving of a gorilla decorated with Zapotec designs. Sandra found a very cute pig. Audrey and Peter found a cat they liked but decided to wait until they check out a few more places. So Cesar took us to a co-op that had artists from all over the wood carving town. Some pieces were exquisite and others were cheap looking and look factory manufactured. So we decided to head back to the Jimenez brother's place so Audrey and Armanda can purchase the cat they wanted. What is beautiful about these wood carvings is that the wood used is from copal – a local soft wood which is also used for making the very fragrant incense for Day of the Dead. We even got to meet Armando and his family, take some photos and speak to him. His work is exhibited worldwide. I found a Japanese catalog of Latin American folk art and found the cutest woodcarving of pigs and piglets which he said if I email him, he will make and ship to me in the US. Hmm, decisions, decisions.
The Jimenez brothers' house and studio. You just knock on the door. If they are home, they answer and you shop!
The adorable Armano Jimenez with my gorilla. The painting is based on Zapotec design and is complicated.
After a wonderful day outside of town, we decided to have a late lunch/early dinner at Maria Bonita, a local Oaxacan restaurant where we shared a cactus salad, Mole Amarillo with chicken and a Chile Relleno with a spicy “worm” sauce. No, it’s not grinded worms. Basically, 2 small agave worms are grinded with the chile sauce to give it a smoky flavor and it’s loaded with protein. It was quite delicious! We then sat in the lounge and chatted with a couple from upstate NY who was also staying at our B&B. They have travelled the world including places like Afghanistan and Iran before the craziness. They’ve worked for the UN. I forgot their names, but the wife is a professional photographer and the husband works in a bank. But there real passion is documenting life around the world. It was fascinating listening to their stories and a good way to end the night.
Cactus Salad at Maria Bonita
Chicken with Amarillo Mole
Chili Relleno with worm sauce
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