December 26, 27 2009
Kyoto and Nara, Japan
Fabulous Winter Weather
I decided to chill out and reflect on the 3 years spent in Japan in Kyoto. And while in the area, continued my culinary extravaganza by going to restaurants specializing in Tofu. Kyoto and Nara (about 30 min from Kyoto) have many tofu specialty places as this is the center of Buddhism in Japan so Zen Vegan cuisine which is based on soy is a specialty.
First restaurant I went to is right by Nanzenji in Kyoto called Okutan. It is housed in a traditional old Kyoto style Japanese house and specializes in Tofu and is over 350 years old. It originally started as a restaurant to serve the monks. So everything served is vegetarian and is based on Tofu. I went there for lunch and they only serve Yudofu (boiled tofu) set menu which was very filling and delicious for only about 3000 yen. All the tofu is made in house using a special recipe so the tofu is very fresh and delicious. A very good and healthy way to start my long weekend in Kyoto.
Okutan Restaurant
The interior: no Western style tables here!
Cold sesame tofu with fresh wasabi
Grated Japanese mountain yam (similar to taro root). Its eaten with rice.
Tofu Dengaku: Grilled tofu with a miso sauce flavored with yuzu (Japanese lime)
Yudofu: Simmered fresh tofu in a seaweed broth
Fresh vegetable tempura
There are also table outside where one can enjoy the meal in the Japanese garden.
The main entrance of Okutan
The second day, I decided to go to Nara which is where Japan was founded and is the eastern end of the silk road. On the main drag of Nara-machi, I found another tofu restaurant to go to for lunch. This one is called Tou-sen-bou and is a modern tofu restaurant. Since I decided to splurge on food during this last week in Japan, I had the most expensive set menu which was 2400 yen.
It started with yuba(tofu skin). This is the first time I had yuba freshly made. Basically, pure soy milk is slowly boiled and as the skin forms, you take it out and dip it in a sauce and eat it. Very good.
Skin is forming
Once formed, you dip it in this vinegary sauce and eat it. You repeat the process until no more soy milk is left.
Konyakku sushi: Konyakku is a superfood and is traditional Japanese. It is made from another unique yam from Japan. It is served in a jellied form. The sashimi is served with a miso based sauce.
I was also served more yuba, a corn soup based on soy milk and a bit sized peace of tofu cake with strawberry sauce
The highlight of the meal though was the tofu croquettes
and the tofu shumai (dumpling)
As with all Japanese dishes, it ended with rice noodles in broth and rice with pickles.
I don't know of any restaurants specializing in Tofu like they have in Kyoto and Nara. I'm sure going to miss it when back in the States. I do know of though a tofu maker in Torrance so maybe I'll ask him how to make some of these yummy dishes and have a tofu party at my place in Malibu
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