December 26-28, 2009
Kyoto and Nara, Japan
Cold but Sunny
After a hectic but fun Christmas which included packing and moving, I took off to Kyoto to reflect on the 3 years in Japan and to also visit Nara which is where Japan was founded. Because this area of Japan is so beautiful and so rich in history, it is a perfect way to say goodbye to this wonderful country.
I took the 810am Nozomi Shinkansen to Kyoto with my huge suitcase and promptly fell asleep until I reached Kyoto. So much for trying to get a last glimpse of Mt. Fuji! Maybe on my flight I will have a chance. Anyhow, arrived at the Westin Miyako, rested a bit and then decided to go for a walk.
I had no plans so just started wandering. I've always wanted to do this in Kyoto as in every other visit I had a packed itinerary. I ended up walking by the magnificent Nanzenji temple, through Maruyama Park and then took NeNe no Michi and somehow ended up at Kiyomizudera Temple.
Nanzenji Neighborhood
I was hoping I could catch the fall leaves but most were gone. Kyoto is magnificent during cherry blossom season and fall foliage season.
Maruyama Park: I very nice elegant park
Just before the Kiyomizudera though I discovered a very quaint temple with a scary deity called the Yasaka Koshindo Temple. The deity - Koshin-san likes good people. Devine favor is given to them but he abhors bad people. He therefore, punishes bad people. His wish, however, is that everybody will become a good person. That is why he has an angry face so that humans will not have a wicked heart. The temple is also decorated magnificently with Kukurizara. Kukurizaru is a monkey which has its hands and feet tied together and cannot move. The belief is that the monkey is very man-like but because it is an animal, it just does whatever it feels like. The Kukurizaru is thus compared to the desire in man, and in order that the "desire" not come out, it is tied by Koshin. The belief is that is you want one of the wishes granted by the monkey, you should get rid of one of your desires. To do this, you must put your desire in the monkey and Koshin will help you control it. And if you feel the "desire" wants to come out, you should put your hands together and pray to Koshin and recite the Buddhist sutra: On Deiba Yakisya Banta Banta Kakakaka Sowaka.
The street to Kiyomizutera: I ran into the 5 story Pagoda
Koshin: He/She'll help you grant your wish as long as you give up on a desire
Kukurizaru
Hear No Evil, Say No Evil, See No Evil
After spending time in the quaint temple, I debated whether to visit Kiyozumedera or not as I've been there so many times. Well, I decided to do it and ended up only spending about 10 minutes because of the crowds. I noticed though many girls and some couples decked out in kimonos only to find out most were from Korea or China and that as part of the tour package, they dress you up so you can visit the famous temples of Kyoto in kimonos. Funny and great marketing.
Kiyomizutera
I believe this is the Kanji the monk of Kiyomizudera thought accurately describes 2009 but I could be wrong. Anyhow, lots of people were taking photos but no one could explain why it was displayed.
The Love Shrine of Kiyomizudera. This is where lots of girls go to wish for a boyfriend or marriage. It is also where Las Vegas meets Buddhism.
2 Korean tourists dressed in kimonos while visiting the World Heritage Site temples of Kyoto
I then walked home and called it a day although it was only about 5pm. I was just so tired from the move and basically, just enjoyed the bottle of 2005 Chateau Gloria St. Julien that I brought and read a book which I have not done in ages.
Mmmm. Heaven..
The next day, I got up early to go to Nara. Nara is a fascinating place and one can spend two full days here and not get enough. Again, I decided that less is more, and basically just decided to wander.
Many people visiting Japan are not familiar with Nara. Nara was the eastern endpoint of the Silk Road. As such, it was a place where various cultures Asia intermingled with the indigenous culture, giving rise to something new and transforming Yamato into Japan in the process. It is where Buddhism, Chinese characters and the concept of a nation state was formed. Japan's first capital of the Heijo-kyo was founded here. In addition, through the compilation of the Kojiki (Japan's oldest historical record) and the Manyoshu (Japan's oldest collection of poetry), the Japanese language was developed. So historians believe it is in the Nara basin, where both the country of Japan and the Japanese language was born.
As soon as I got off the train, I was greeted by the famous deer of Nara. Only in Nara do you see deer or any wildlife besides birds roam a major city. However, it seems, all of the antlers have been chopped off. Not sure if this is good for the deer or not. Anyhow, most are used to people and cannot wait to be fed.
The deer that greeted me when I just arrived in Nara.
I made my way to the great Todai-ji. It was founded by Emperor Shomu to enshrine the Great Image of Buddha and as the General Head-temple of all provincial temples in Japan. It was completed in 752 but unfortunately burned down twice and was lastly rebuilt in 1692 and scaled down to 2/3 of the original size. However, it is still the largest wooden building in the world and is just amazing. In the old days, the Buddhist temples were centers of education, medicine and even the military. At Todai-ji, there still is a hospital that caters to the unfortunate. It is good to know that Buddhism is still alive in a country where majority of the people as Richard Cohen from NYtimes says is "rich, bored, and gloomy". It seems that if the people embrace the core values the country was founded on instead of searching for the next "otaku" thing to get excited about, the happier the country will be. Anyways, I digress.
I don't know what kind of fruit trees these are (looks like persimmon but not sure) but they were all over Nara.
The Main Gate of Todai-ji
The Magnificent Todai-ji: Largest wooden structure in the world.
This guy sits in front of Todai-ji and is Binzuru. He is said to have supernatural powers. It is said that if you rub the area of Binzuru that ails you and then rub the corresponding part of your own body, you will be cured.
The Great Buddha of Nara
While visiting Todai-ji and the Great Buddha, a monk was reciting sutras in front of the Great Buddha.
After the Todai-ji, I walked around the grounds and visited the Nigatsu-do Hall where the famous water and fire festival is held every March and also visited the Hokke-do which is the oldest structure at Todai-ji. I was not allowed to take photos inside the Hokke-do but wow, what magnificent images of the different bodhisatvas. The main one is the Goddess of Compassion. It is must see in Nara. I would also like to see the famous water and fire festival in March if I can.
Nigatsu-do Hall
You've got to climb lots of stairs to get to the hall.
The balcony of Nigetsu-do Hall
I then walked along the quiet path and visited the Kasuga Taisha Shrine that was under construction. It is believed to have been founded in the 8th century and is known for the Kasuga architecture style. The grounds are amazing and surrounded by hanging bronze lanterns and what seems thousands of stone lanterns.
While walking the ground of Kasuga Taisha Shrine, a buck howled and then all the deer gathered in one place. The buck was hissing. Not sure what was going on but one baby deer decided to feed while waiting.
The Kasuga Taisha Shinto Shrine.
Lanterns Everywhere
After thoroughly enjoying the visit, I followed the Sasayakino-Komichi path and somehow found my way to Nara-Michi - the hustle and bustle shopping district of Nara since the olden times. I really wanted to go to the Heijo Palace as it will be celebrating the 1300 year anniversary next year. And this is where Japan was founded. After stopping at the tourist office to find out the most efficient way to get there - which is by taxi by the way. I caught a cab and headed towards the palace. I could not understand why the cab driver was discouraging me to go there and once I arrived and he took off, I found out why. Everything was closed in preparation for next year's celebration. Also, almost all of the palace in gone. All that exists are the main gate and audience hall. However, the palace is surrounded with ancient burial grounds. I think it is the only place in Japan where the ancient burial grounds are protected and are available for people to visit. The major disappointment, however, was the railroad tracks that go through the middle of the palace site. Really, what were they thinking!
The Gate of the Heijo Palace
The View of the Audience Hall from the Gate. The grounds of the palace is huge. But there is a railroad track that runs right in the middle.
Remains of the palace buildings.
The train that runs through the grounds.
Ancient Burial grounds.
The camellia trees dotting the grounds were interesting as they were in full bloom but no leaves!
Another view of the palace grounds from the museum that was also closed due to renovation.
It was late afternoon after I walked the large grounds of the palace site so went to the nearest station and took the train back to Kyoto. All in all is was a great day and if I have a chance to visit Japan again, Nara will gain be on the top of my list.
The next day in Kyoto, I again decided to wander although I've concluded I had to buy a small suitcase. This means I'll be going home with 4 suitcases (2 very huge ones), one backpack and my camera bag. How I'm ever going to manage is beyond me especially with the new security measures due to the crazy guy who tried to blow up a Delta Airlines flight from Amsterdam during the holidays with homemade explosives.
So while walking Sanjo Street I accidentally ran into the famous Nishiki market. Wow, it was busy for a Monday. Then I realized, all the ladies were shopping to get ready for New Years. New Year's Day is a very important holiday in Japan. The shopping for food started on the 28th, and the 29th, 30th is used for in-depth cleaining while the 31st is the day for cooking and getting ready for the New Year. Ladies half my size lengthwise and widthwise where pushing, shoving and bargaining for the best deal. Wild scene but everything in the market looked fabulous.
Entering the Nishiki Market
The gourmet pickle lady
Look at these gorgeous carrots. They are so perfect it looks fake.
Rice Cakes: Rice cakes are a traditional food for New Year's Day in Japan.
The candy store
A stall that sold the traditional New Year's Day Decorations
Kamaboko: Japanese fish cake that my nephews and I love
Grilled Fish
I love grilled fish. They were also selling pieces of Hamo tempura style and kushi-age style. Hamo is very well known in the Kansai (Osaka and Kyoto) region and is similar to pike eel. It is very very good. I had one stick of the tempura style (deep fried in a flour batter) and one kushi-age style (deep friend with breadcrumbs). Delicious!
Chestnut Store
Vegetable store with already cut veggies. Beautiful. I also notices in most stores the prices are all in Kanji including the numbers. The sign below says 120yen.
Pickles!
Japanese style antipasto
I have no idea what this is but all the vegetable stores had it and people were buying them in bulks.
And then as I walked out of Nishiki market looking for a suitcase store a Maiko dressed in "casual" clothes walked by me!
I could definitely live in Kyoto. Kyoto and the surrounding areas represent the Japan that I love. Rich in culture and tradition. I really am going to miss it.
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