Saturday November 14, 2009
Phnom Penh, Cambodia, Day One
Hot and Humid
Our first stop on our tour of Phnom Penh was the infamous Khmer Rouge prison Security Prison 21 (S-21). It is now a museum which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. About 20,000 people went through this prison. Those that did not die from the torture and starvation of the prison were executed in the Killing Fields (just outside Phnom Penh). Some were shot but most were bludgeoned to death to save on bullets. No one was safe from the atrocities. Pol Pot believed in Mao Tse Tung's Communism theory and took it to the extreme. Although he himself was a teacher who was educated in France (he and other Cambodian students in France started the Khmer Rouge while in Paris), he did not believe in intellectuals and religions because according to him, they were detrimental in building a society that is equal as described in Mao's Red Book. Therefore, the Khmer Rouge tortured and killed them after they took over the government in 1975. Not only were the individuals killed but everyone related to he or she were killed as they believed in the Chinese philosophy that "to kill a tree, you need to cut the roots". No one was spared including infants. The insanity continued where common people were captured, tortured and killed with their families. It even reached greater heights of insanity where the Khmer Rouge began killing their own. I can go on about the history, but it is well documented and there are many books about it. But what affected me the most on this trip is that because it happened not long ago, many Cambodians that are alive today have been affected including my tour guide(Kosal). He and his family were separated and were forced to work in the fields. Two of his older brothers died in the fields from hard labor and starvation - they were only 6 and 8. He was born in the camps and his parents still remember what it is like to be hungry and they were only served water with a few grains of rice. He speaks about it matter of factually and what shocked me the most is that the Khmer Rouge guards of the prison are free and some work at the museum as kitchen staff and live amongst the people. But if you here the testimony of some of the guards, many were forced to do what they had to do, and were brainwashed as they were recruited as children as young as 5 and 6 to do what they had to do.
The whole visit was educational but emotionally draining. It was difficult to take photos as the prison is basically kept as it was found, except for a couple of floors that houses the photos of the prisoners. The setting of the prison (a converted high school) in the middle of lush Phnom Penh makes the visit even more depressing and the crimes even more horrific. Kosal said that many in the outside world did not know about the prison and it was found after the Vietnamese took over Cambodia in 1978. A Vietnamese journalist followed a stench from his hotel and found the prison. I took some photos hoping that the few who read the blog will be motivated to learn about the plight of the Cambodians during this period. We said "never again" after the Holocaust but human atrocities are still occurring around the world. It is only through education and action of the people that can help stop the darkest side of the human spirit.
S-21: When I first arrived here, I asked Kasol, my guide, "where are we?" and he said the prison. I said "here?" I could not believe a very ordinary square with a beautiful courtyard could be a prison where humanity was at its worst.
The Vietnamese reporter found 14 corpses including one woman in the prison. They died from torture. These are their graves and are located in the compound.
Building A: The intellectuals were imprisoned here.
The intellectual's prison cell: They were shackled and tortured in these rooms. All that were removed were the mattresses. The blood stains were everywhere.
Blood Stains
Building B was for the commoners.
Prisoners were hung here from their wrists until so that they will confess their sins. All of them passed out from the pain. Their heads were then submerged in waste water (the jars) until they regained consciousness. The process was then repeated until the confession was satisfactory or the prisoner died.
The "commoners" were kept in horrendous cells. Many have been destroyed to make room for the exhibition. But you can see the size of an average cell from the photo below. My foot is in the middle. The gray lines are where the walls were. Mothers with children were kept in these cells. They had to ask permission to defecate or urinate. Once they got permission, they had to do it in the cell. If the child did it accidentally, they were tortured.
Like Nazi Germany, the Khmer Rouge documented extensive records of the prisoners. Here are photos of the children.
The Khmer Rouge made sure that "passport" like photos were taken. So a contraption was placed to hold the neck so that the prisoner was sitting erect. The photo below is of a "commoner"
Display of clothing found in the prison.
Shackles
Commoner's Cell
Hallway in Building B: The commoner's cell
The extensive documentation by the Khmer Rouge
When the Vietnamese journalist arrived he found 7 surviving prisoners. Today, only 2 are alive. One is a painter.
After being tortured and interrogated, the prisoners were sent to the Killing Fields to be killed. Today, it is owned by a Japanese company which charges 3 USD to see the fields. ( 1USD is more than the avg daily wage of Cambodians) The Cambodian people are not happy about the commercialization of their tragedy. For this reason and because I was so emotionally drained, I did not go to the Killing Fields.
Building B where the Commoners were imprisoned.
I shall never forget this photo. Her eyes were sparkling from tears that have not dropped. She is resigned to her fate.
I am a Japanese. In Japan only Angkor Wat sitseeing.
Japan must know crime of khmer rouge. But almost Japanese not know this truth. In Japan Photobook of khmer rouge is nothing. I want appeal this crime. Cambodian goverment hope support of Japan. But few Camdian peaple know bribe. The sprit of decadence now pprevailing in Cambodian inland. I think I have to see this realies of Japan. Because by same Asian. And prostitution. I hope life of Cambodian people progress.
Posted by: Sekiya Takashi | May 22, 2010 at 10:41 PM
Thank you for posting this information about your experience visiting Tuol Sleng, where so many unspeakable atrocities were committed. I would like to use a picture you took of the children who were killed there in a video project I am working on for my school about Cambodian refugees in America. Do you mind if I use your photo? I can give you more information if you like. Please let me know. Thank you.
Posted by: Oaya | January 07, 2013 at 08:48 PM