Saturday November 14, 2009
Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Day One
Hot, Humid, Hot
After a draining visit to the Tuol Sleng, we continued our tour of Phnom Penh with Kasol our guide who took us to the royal palace. Wow, what a difference from the prison. I had trouble enjoying it as it was so grand and spectacular that it just did not feel right, especially when you see the poverty in the outskirts of the city and learned what happened to the people during the Khmer Rouge period. Anyhow, the King is revered in Cambodia. King Sihanouk who reigned during the Vietnam War and was in exile is now very ill and in Beijing getting treatment. He, however, is revered all over Cambodia and his posters are everywhere. His son though is now the King and also seems to be very popular. There is a major dispute going on between Thailand and Cambodia now over a Wat at the border and the King is heavily involved. Both countries have recalled their ambassadors. It seems that after being “bullied” by Vietnam and Thailand for centuries, the Cambodians have had it and are asserting themselves instead of catering to one “big brother over the other”. The new King at a young age is already having challenges.
The palace grounds were spectacular. There was a lot of gold and silver everywhere including in the Silver Palace where the floors were made of silver tiles weighing about 1 kilo each. In the Silver Palace is an image of Buddha made of 200 pounds of gold and decorated in 2086 diamonds including a diamond that is 25 carats big. Even the King’s palanquin is made of gold – 50 pounds of it. We also went to the main building of the palace grounds where the throne resides. It too was of gold but “only” gold plating. However, the ceiling was spectacular as it was a painting depicting the story of Ramayama which is a very famous story in Cambodia about ambition, treachery and revenge. I was not allowed to take photos inside the building but took some outside. As you can see it is quite grand but a wall surrounds it which to me is a symbol of the “have and have nots” in Cambodia.
The building where the throne resides
A very interesting tree - it is called the Cannonball tree. The flowers only last a day but a cannon ball sized seed grows on the trees.
The palace: As the flag in flying the King is in residence.
The beautiful grounds
The costume display. Different color depending on what day it is.
More views of the palace grounds
A replica of Angkor Wat
Water lilies everywhere
Our last stop was the National Museum where many of the Angkor era treasures are housed. The building was built in 1917 by a French architect but in traditional Cambodia design. It is quite a lovely museum as it is very open with a beautiful courtyard in the middle. Although many of the Angkor era treasures were stolen, many have been returned including several from ordinary American’s who took them during the Vietnam War. We had a lovely guide inside the museum that patiently explained what each artifact symbolized. It was quite complicated to understand everything as during the Angkor period, there were 3 major influential gods: Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. Shiva is a destroyer with a 3rd eye and uses a bull for transportation. Vishnu is the protector of the world and has 4 arms and uses the garuda as a means of transport. And lastly the Brahma is a creator and has 4 faces and 4 hands and uses the swan as a vehicle. Much of the influence came from Buddhism and Hinduism but as I am not too familiar with Hinduism it was a bit difficult for me to understand. Anyhow, I bought a book on the history of Cambodia so will read up on it before I go to Siem Reap.
At the courtyard, I met a very nice monk who wanted to speak to me as he wanted to practice his English. His name is Sona and he became a monk because his parents were poor and could not afford an education. So by becoming a monk at age 14, he was given a chance to get some education and he decided to focus on English. His English was very good! He was there with a friend who was very shy but we had a nice conversation. It was a very good way to end our day, as he was full of hope about the future.
The National Museum - Beautifully designed building.
The Courtyard
The shy monk contemplating
The national tree of Cambodia - The Palm Tree
Kasol then dropped us off at the hotel as our tour for the day was finished. We rested in our wonderful hotel and decided to go for an early dinner as Sandra just arrived that day from a long trip from San Francisco and was running on fumes. We decided to go to Melis, which is supposedly the best Khmer restaurant in Phnom Penh. We took a tuk tuk ride there and found it to probably be also the fanciest restaurant. Anyhow, we had a great meal of fish amok (probably the most famous Cambodian food which is fish with curry paste steamed in banana leaves), spicy shrimp and mango salad, rice noodles and sautéed long beans. All was delicious although not as spicy as expected and served on these beautiful wooden plates made from the native palm tree. We loved the palm plates so much that we decided to hunt for them during our shopping day, which is the next day.
Our first tuk-tuk ride
The most expensive Khmer restaurant in Cambodia. Dinner for two including a bottle of wine and tips was 50 USD.
Fish Amok: Arguably the most famous dish in Cambodia. Fresh water fish baked in curry and Khmer spices.
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