The Snowlady Chronicles

Tokyo "Sampo" - Ningyocho

 Saturday November 26, 2011

Malibu, CA

Gorgeous Beach Weather

Hard to believe it's only been 6 days since I came back from my business trip to Tokyo and Hanoi.  It was a good trip both for business and personal reasons.

This time in Tokyo, I stayed at the Royal Park Hotel next to the TCAT.  I've only stayed there once as the hotel usually is always fully booked.   It's very convenient to the IBM offices as it is only a 5 minute walk away.   And it is located in the heart of Ningyo-cho.  I've always wanted to explore the area but for some reason never did while living in Japan as I was always busy at work so stayed in the office.  And to spend a weekend near my work location was not that appealing.

But as I had Sunday AM free and jetlagged to the max, I decided to get some fresh air and explore the neighborhood.  I got a map from the concierge and he recommended I do the 2 hour Nihonbashi Shichifukujin (Seven Good Fortune Deities) walking tour.   Armed with an English map, I set off finding the famous deities who have their own dedicated Shinto shrines and hoping that by visiting all seven, good fortune will be bestowed upon me. 

 The first stop was the Suitengu shrine where the deity Benzaiten "lives".  The shrine is known for safe delivery of babies.  I happened to go to the shrine  during a festival for 3,4,5 year olds.  And since it was a Sunday, many parents brought their newborns to be blessed. 

 Suitengu Shrine where a statue of Benzaiten is enshrined and was reportedly carved by a famous Japanese sculptor during the Kamakura period (1100s)

Benzaiten's "House"

Family getting their newborn blessed.

The next stop was the Chanoki Shrine which is dedicated to the deity Hoteison -god of luck, matchmaking and fertility.  The name derives from the tea trees which grow thickly around the shrine.  There have been no major fires within the town so it is also worshipeed as a fire prevention deity.

Chanoki Shrine:  Small shrine but very nice.

As much of the Ningyo-cho area survied the bombings during WWII, one can find some old buildings while exploring the neighborhood.

The third stop was the Koami Shrine dedicated to Fukurokuji - god of longevity and virtue, and Benzaiten - god of learning and wealth.  It was squeezed between two homes.  But it is a long standing shrine that was first established in 1466!  It also must be famous for coccoons as many coccoons with peoples fortunes were hanging from the trees.

Only in Japan, will one find a shrine in between two parking lots.  This shrine is called the Takarada Ebisu shrine which is dedicated to Ebisujin - god of fishermen and prosperous business.  The shrine houses the statue of the deity which was either carved by Unkei(1100s) or Jingoro Hidarai(1400s).

 The next stop was the Suginomori shrine.  It was first founded about 1000 years ago and worshipped as Edo Mitsumori ( three great forests of Edo).  Ebisu, the god of bounty, is worshipped here.  It must be an important shrine like Suitengu as the shrine has bigger grounds (albeit smaller than Suitengu)

On the way to the next shrine, I ran into the Jusaburo Doll Museum.  It was opened in 1996 by Mr. Jusaburo who is a famous Japanese puppet maker.  It's quite tiny but an amazing place.  Once I walked in I felt like I was in a small atelier in Montmartre during the 1920s.  Chanson music was playing which added alot to the ambience.  I was not allowed to take any photos inside, but it is a must see when in the neighborhood.  The master himself was there ( I believe he is in his 70s).  He wore a kimono with a gold earring on his right ear.   He told me he was born to a geisha and grew up with geishas and thus got inspired to create ornate dolls and puppets.  It was definitely a highlight of the walk.

Jusaburo Doll Museum

The next stop was the Kasami Inari Shrine which is home to Jurojin, the deity of virtue, longevity and good luck.  The shrine is also famous for chrysanthemums which were in full bloom.  And finally, someone who was selling amulets.  So I bought two amulets (one for me and the other for my sister).  It's supposed to help us live a very prosperous and long life!

Lots of foxes in this shrine.  They are supposedly messengers of the deities.

Suehiro Shrine was the next stop.  Again, a tiny shrine squeezed in between homes.  It is home to Bishamonten, the guardian of the world.  We really need this deity to start taking over.  Although a tiny shrine, there were a couple of interesting stone sculptures and it really is an oasis in middle of a busy street.

Another old house I found interesting during the walk.

 

And the last shrine I visited is the Matsushima shrine.  It's pretty amazing because an apartment building is built around it.  Again, only in Japan.  It is home to Daikokujin, the god of harvest.  There was even a store next to the shrine that sold some interesting trinkets, all made of rice, in honor of Daikokujin but unfortunately it was closed.

The walk took about 2.5 hours including the stop at the doll/puppet museum.  I found the neighborhood to be so interesting that the next day due to jet lag ( I was up since 3am), I decided to walk along the Sumida River to check out the early AM scene.

Because it was early, there were only a few people walking - mainly joggers and dog walkers.

Early AM Sumida River

I did get a good view of the Tokyo Sky Tree which is the tallest tower in the world.  It's main purpose is for digital broadcasting but I find it too be ugly.  Tokyo Tower is still my favorite tower...

Instead of walking all the way to Asakusa along the Sumida River (after all, I have to work!), I turned into Hamacho Park which is a nice neighborhood park.  The trees have not changed color yet but it must be gorgeous when the fall foliage reaches their peak.

The AM walk took me about 40 minutes with stops for photos.  

And to close, let me tell you a little about the history of Ningyo-cho.  Ningyo-cho got its name because a large number of ningyo (doll) craftsmen lived there during the Edo period.  And it was during the Edo period that it flourished as a central commerce district.  It was also the center for the arts where kabuki, Japanese puppet shows and theaters dominated the night life.   As it was spared damage from the bombings of WWII, many visitors enjoy the area to discover old Tokyo and the arts.   And one always buys ningyo-yaki (doll-shaped cake filled with bean jam) as gifts when visiting this area. 

Ningyo-yaki

 I highly recommend people explore this part of Tokyo - a part of the real Tokyo.

A Hike thru Japan to Welcome Autumn

 Saturday November 5, 2011

Malibu, California

Sunny, Cool and Bright Blue Skies

 

Wow, I can't believe its been over a month since I was in Japan.  Time sure does fly.  I meant to post this earlier but just did not have the blogging mojo.  Lately, I've been very busy with lots of travel and work.  Anyhow, leaving for Japan again next week, so wanted to tell you all about one of the most beautiful hikes I've taken in Japan thanks to Mary L who referred me to this blog about hiking in Japan.

Fortunately for me, I was in Japan, the end of September when signs of fall started appearing in Tokyo and the surroundings.  And as I mentioned in some previous posts about Japan, I love that in Japan, they celebrate the seasons by "honoring" the flowers that bloom during the different seasons.  I happened to be in Tokyo when the spider lilies were in full bloom.  The blooming of the spider lilies signify the end of summer and beginning of Autumn.

So to welcome Autumn in Tokyo, my besties in Japan - Mary Z, Mary L, and I decided to take a 4-5 hour hike through a couple of small villages outside Tokyo where spider lilies are in full bloom.

We met up early on Sunday and took the one hour or so train ride to Koma station which is in Saitama.  It was easy to find the trail as we just had to follow the crowd.  In addition, the trail is very well marked albeit in Japanese.   What was surprising though, that throughout the whole hike, we were the only foreigners!   We were lucky to find out about this place because of the aforementioned blog that Mary Z found but it seems most people do not know about this area.   I asked several people from the office and they did not know anything about the area so I suppose it should not have been surprising to us that we were the only foreigners. 

Anyhow, our first goal was to hike to the top of Mt. Hiwada which is only 300meters high but a typical Japanese mountain that is steep.   On the way, while following the crowds, we noticed that the locals were selling vegetables from the farms and also some great fall displays.   It was quite inexpensive compared to Japanese standards and also some stands were based on the "honor" system.  That is, leave the monies in the box after you pick which veggies you want.  The people of the village were so friendly and happy.

 Passing local vegetable and fall display stands on the way to Mt. Hiwada

Mary L and Mary Z bought some gorgeous fall displays from this very nice lady

Barbecued Fish caught in the local river for sale

Once we past the village, we saw a sign that took us to a main street and then to a country road.  On the country road, we saw many beautiful chestnut trees.  Many of the chestnuts were bursting from their burrs.  Another sign that fall has arrived.

Chestnut trees

As we got closer to the trail to Mt Hiwade, the more spider lilies we saw.  We even went over a bridge decorated in spider lily motif.

We found the trail very easily and loved the wild flowers that greeted us at the beginning of the trail.

The beginning of the trail was very wide and easy but gave one a workout.  And like all mountains in Japan, one most go through the Shinto gate (Torii) to reach the top.  The path got narrower though and although not difficult, it seemed that some of the path eroded from the recent typhoon, so it required some careful maneuvering which was hell on my bad knee as I did not have my trekking poles with me.

View from the trail

Almost to the top

I think this is the first time I saw a hang glider in Japan

Lots of folks had a snack near the top.  The views are spectacular from here.  Unfortunately it was overcast so could not see Mt. Fuji

Alas, the peak

And here we are.

After carefully, walking down the path, we found out that there were 2 paths.  (Path for a Woman, and path for a Man).  Seriously, that what they were named.  The Path for Woman, is the easiest and the one we took.  The Path for Man required some rock scampering.  I'm so glad we didn't accidentally take that one!

Anyhow, after carefully going down the path, we found our way to the next destination - Kinchakuda.  Kinchakuda is a park most famous for the spider lilies.  And it did not disappoint.  It was spectacular.  And as Mary Z said, the colors remind her of the upcoming holiday season.

We saw some cute scarecrows before entering Kinchakuda

And once we entered, we saw a SPECTACULAR display of the spider lilies.

And we ran into this old man fishing!

We were supposed to take the Do-Re-Mi bridge which will take us through the Koma pass to the Hanno Station.  But the bridge was destoyed by the typhoon so had to walk around the park to get to the trail.

Once on the trail it was a nice walk through a forest.  However, the signs are all in Japanese, so can be difficult to find one's way if you can't read the signs.  Fortunately, there were enough hikers so I was able to stop them and ask for directions.

Koma Pass

A wood carving left alone on the trail

The trail dumped us at a busy intersection where we lost our bearings a bit.  Fortunately, we found a woman who offered to take us to the train station as she was going that way.   On the way,we started to seeing pomegranate trees and found out the town was known for pomegranate!

Pomegranate Trees

Road to Hanno Station.  Notcie the flag.  It says that Hanno is the Pomegranate Village

We made it back to Tokyo, tired but refreshed.  We had a GREAT time and I feel so fortunate to be able to discuss another part of Japan that I did not know and explore it with dear friends Mary L and Mary Z

Tokyo "Sampo"

Thursday October 27, 2011

Cabo San Lucas,  Mexico

Hot!

 When in Tokyo, I like to go for a "sampo" or walk around town.  Like NYC, Tokyo is a great walking town.  It's also a great way to get exercise as it can be hilly, with lots of steps for a good cardio workout.  So when on a business trip to Tokyo recently, I spent a late morning taking a walk to Ometesando from my hotel in Akasaka.  It's quite an easy walk and can be done in about 2.5 hours.  Here are some photos from the walk.

One of the "must see and experience" shops in Ometesando is Kiddyland.  It moved from it's original location to a more spacious place but still is a toy store on steriods

Hello Kitty dolls from Kiddyland

At Ometesando Hills, they were showcasing an up an coming artist that made this cute stuffed animals made from felted wool yarn that she dyed and spun by herself.

Also, every weekend and I mean every weekend at Omotesando, one can find a line.  This line was for people waiting to get into a restaurant.  The restaurant is called Eggs 'N Things which is a famous breakfast place in Honolulu.  I guess they opened up a branch in Tokyo which is super popular!

I also saw at Omotesando Hills (a very famous shopping mall), a fancy wedding.  Fancy as they had incredible music but again the ceremony was conducted by a fake priest.  IE, the priest was an English actor in Japan.  So weird as the vows were said in English and to God.  I am not a religious person, but this practice really bothers me.

The wedding party "after the fake Christian ceremony".  I wonder how much money they spent?

On the way back, I walked through Tokyo Midtown, another chi-chi shopping and dining complex which is in Roppongi.  True to Japanese enthusiam to find any excuse to celebrate, Tokyo Midtown had Halloween decorations EVERYWHERE!

Anyhow, it was a good break from working.  Stay tuned on a gorgous "sampo" I did in Saitama with Mary L and Mary K. 

Rock and Roll Tokyo

Saturday April 30, 2011

Tokyo, Japan

Sunny and Breezy

 

I arrived in Japan last Saturday for business.   As usual, things were pretty hectic at work but I did manage to go out and and do some interesting and sometimes dramatic things.   I was not sure what to expect when I arrived in Narita.  It was pouring rain with strong winds so the bus ride to the hotel was a bit scary but there was no visible earthquake damage.  It seemed business as usual.  I got to the hotel in pouring rain Saturday nite, had dinner with my cousins and family, turned in early for the nite and bang... an aftershock.  Small but enough to make the building creak.  So no,  things are not normal in Tokyo yet. 

I spent Sunday packing socks I brought from the US for Socks for Japan.  Some of my generous friends participated in it so I had over 100 socks to deliver!  But before I took that on,  as I was up since 4am due to jet lag,  I took a walk around the neighborhood.  In honor of Skipper,  I did his favorite walk - ANA Intercontinental - Shiroyama park - Tokyo Tower - Zozoji Temple- Shiroyama Park - Izumi Park - Ark Hills Park - ANA Intercontinental.   It was a sunny and cool morning.  I was hoping to catch the cherry blossoms but the rain seemed to have washed away most of the blossoms.

 Carp Kites flying for Boys Day (May 5).  The black carp represents the father, the red carp the mother, and the others - the son.

I did manage to find a cherry tree with some blossoms!  And it was overlooking the Jizo statues of Zozoji

Zozoji Temple and Tokyo Tower:  I was going to call this "old and new"  but now with the Sky Tower getting built, will Tokyo Tower be forgotten?

I noticed the Azaleas were in full bloom.  A definite sign that Cherry Blossom season is over.

Found another cherry tree with some blossoms at Shiroyama Park.

And tulips were in full bloom at one of the Ark Hills gardens

After packing the socks and gettting ready for work,  I went to Tokyo Midtown to meet Motomi at my fav restaurant Union Square Tokyo for a celebration drink - she is engaged!.  Everything seemed back to normal with people shopping and enjoying the weather.

Tokyo Midtown Grounds

After a drink, well two drinks,  we went to Motomi's mother's atelier for dinner.  I worked with her father and the entire family is very dear to me. 

Sashimi from Tsukiji!  Yum

Mami-san (Motomi's mother)  sent me back to the hotel with a gift from Zohiko Kyoto!  I love Zohiko's lacquerware.

The work week was crazy busy, but one of my clients treated me to a very special dinner in Kagurazaka.  Kagurazaka is a sophisticated part of Tokyo where Old traditional Tokyo meets New Tokyo.   The restaurant was hard to find but I was treated to fabulous food with a real Tokyo Geisha who entertained us.  Her family owns the restaurant and have owned it for generations.  We also met her mother who was a geisha.  Her father was a "male" geisha.  The male geisha's were professional entertainers.  It was an amazing experience as we also learned about the history of the place.

The special restaurant in Kagurazaka

The beautiful and delicious food

Probably the most expensive melon I've ever had

And the entertainment.  She is using an empty match box as the instrument

 

After a busy and hot workweek ( I say hot, because A/C has been cut down to save on electricity in Japan due to the disablement of the Tepco nuclear plant), I headed to Kiddyland to buy some gifts.  I decided to walk Kiddlyland as I was recovering from a bit of a drama the night before.  On the last day of work, the team went out to dinner.  In the cab , I got bitten by a bug on my neck.  That resulted in a fever and hives and a trip to the emergency room.  Crazy!  I travel all over the world and it happens in a cab in Tokyo.  And a cab in Tokyo is probably cleaner than my house in Malibu!  Anyhow, all is OK and by early afternoon I was up for a walk.  I walked thru Tokyo Midtown to the main drag that takes you directly to Ometesando. On the way, I saw this interesting building below.

But when it came to find Kiddyland it was gone!  Then I found out they were renovating and had a temporary store off Ometesando on "Cat Street".  I have to say for a "temporary" store, it was quite complete and fun to visit.

The Kiddyland "Temporary" Store

I spent the evening with Carl and Mary who live in Homat Viscount (my old Tokyo apartment).  Mary made a wonderful dinner and we enjoyed the British Royal Wedding while also catching up. A lovely, lovely evening.

On my last full day in Tokyo,  I woke up early and decided to check out Nezu Jinja.  And I'm glad I did as the Azalea festival was happening.  Wow!  How could I have missed this the 3 years I was in Tokyo!

Nezu Jinja:  Supposedly founded over 1900 years ago. 

Turtles enjoying the azaleas.

 

I was there before the 9am opening time, so most of the food stalls were not open

Azaleas:  Close Ups

 

My next stop was Ueno Park to check out the Peony's.  I've always wanted to see this garden in Ueno but always missed it as the season is short.  There are two seasons:  Winter and Spring.   I am so glad that I went as the peonies were in full bloom.  They were gorgeous and the aroma was devine.

I followed the signs to the Peony Garden (no English sign though!)

The peonies were protected by traditional Japanese umbrellas

 

I then went back to the hotel,  did some work,  then some last minute shopping and called it a day.  Although, Tokyo seemed "normal",  I did experience 5 earthquakes during the week.  And found if you look carefully,  you will notice the damage.  The Japanese TV stations also show a lot about the suffering of the people who experienced the brunt of the disaster.  It is tragic and heartbreaking.  And the situation is becoming dire for the animals left in the 20km no-go zone near the reactor.  Pets, horses and farm animals are dying from a horrible death (starvation), yet the government of Japan will not do anything.  If interested in helping, please check out Jears.org and ARK.  And Pray for Japan!

Earthquake Damage @hotel

Tokyo for a Week

 Friday November 26, 2010

Malibu, California

Sunny and Cool

 

Writing this post from Malibu Animal Hospital as I wait to see how the tests on Skipper goes.  So worried as he significantly weakened in the last 24 hours.   I'll report how he is doing when writing about my Thanksgiving week.

But this post is about my week in Tokyo.  After returning from Mexico, I had 2 nites home and then left for Tokyo, two Thursdays ago.  The plan was to spend the 1st weekend in Tokyo visiting some sites and take photos of the fall foliage.  Well, that didn't work out because a) I started suffering the full symptoms of the flu/cold from Mexico and b) had to get a few important presentations ready for the Japan trip so worked most of the weekend. 

But all in all it was a good trip as I got to see my cousins' family, my BFFs Mirian her husband David, Monika and her husband Michael and Mary Z.  Missed seeing Mary L though and many more special friends I made in Japan.  I stayed at the ANA Intercontinental which was weird as my room had a view of my old apartment building.   It was also great to see my friends/colleagues from work.  The week ended with a dinner with my colleagues/friends from work with lots of wine and lasted until past 1am in the morning! 

 I really miss these clever Metro signs!  The artist is a genius

One of the objectives of the trip was to go to the Interbee Convention in Makuhari.  Interbee is a convention for Japanese broadcasters.  Makuhari is located in between Tokyo and Narita.  The whole city reminds me of Dallas as all the buildings are modern.  It is also home to the "Marines" baseball team.

Entrance to Interbee.  Check out the English.  Seriously, for such an important conference you would think they would check the English grammar.

But in typical Japanese fashion it was very well organized.

The very intelligent and professional IBM team

Although I worked very long hours (started at 6am everyday!) I managed to have fun.   And did manage to use my Sony Alpha 200 a few times.  I've been in such a funk about getting motivated to take photos so was hoping the Japan trip will snap me out of it.  But no, really only used it twice.  Need to get motivated!

Went out to a really good Italian restaurant on Tuesday

Blurry iphone photo but check out the iphone case my assistant in Japan made.  She decorated her iphone with Swarovski crystals.  Speaking of iphones, was so surprised to see so many iphones in Japan!

Leave it to Japan though to start X'mas season early.  It's 100% commercial as Christianity is a minority religion in Japan.   Yes, it's very commercial in the US too, but many do celebrate the religious significance of the holiday.

Here's the entrance to a very fancy restaurant decorated for X'mas

For my free time, I walked around my neighborhood.  The Sunday I was there, I stopped by the farmer's market at Ark Hills that was just getting started about a month before I left.  I found it to be a bit bigger but alot more crowded.  I'm glad it's getting popular!

"All photos below taken with my Sony Alpha 200"

Farmer's Market at Ark Hills

Monika, her husband Michael, Mary Z and I went to dinner at Union Square Tokyo in Tokyo Midtown.  It's one of my favorite restaurants in Tokyo for continental food.  Union Square NY is one of my favorite restaurants in the world!  So was able to enjoy the fancy and perfect X'mas decorations Tokyo Midtown is famous for.

The Tokyo Midtown Christmas tree made of Santa Claus ornaments

Tokyo Midtown X'mas Illumination sponsored by........... Emirates Airlines.  Yes,  isn't Islam the official religion of UAE? 

But the "X'mas Illumination" was exquisite.   I loved the shooting star effect and some of the lights looked like they were floating in the sky.

But what I like most about Tokyo in November is the fall foliage.  Unfortunately, I did not have time to enjoy it and only took this one picture.  Also, because Japan had such a hot summer, the foliage was not at its peak.  I hope to have another opportunity to get back to Tokyo again soon.  I sure miss it!

Celebrating the New Year and a New Decade in Osaka

December 29-January 2, 2010

Osaka, Japan

Cold and Sometimes Rainy

Day 1:  Tuesday December 29

I spent my last days in Japan with my family in Osaka.  My base was Uncle Susumu and Aunt Kazuko's house in the Tennoji area of Osaka.  I arrived late afternoon on the 29th.  I had no problem getting to Tennoji station but could not remember how to take the streetcar from Tennoji to my Uncle's house.  So I took a cab.  I gave the cab driver the address but at first he kept on saying that he did not speak any English and I kept on telling him I am speaking to you in Japanese.  Well, after a few minutes of this he finally realized I was speaking Japanese and we both had a good laugh.  He ended up being a very nice and fun cab driver but since he did not know exactly where to drop me off, he called my Uncle and got specific directions.

When I arrived, Masako- my cousin and Uncle Susumu greeted me.  The rest of the family was out shopping.  Uncle Susumu promptly showed me a piece of paper and explained it is a copy of the original paperwork my mother had to fill out when she got married to my father.  Very cool.  He then told me about his first experience eating with a fork and a knife (Western style).  It was at my parents wedding in Kobe!  My parent's had their wedding at one of the most exclusive private clubs in Kobe at the time called the Kitano Club.  My Uncle Susumu was still a high school student and he told me he was so awe struck at the club he had no idea what he was supposed to do.  Anyhow, he said, the food they had was the first Western meal he has ever had and also the first time he had wine or alcohol for that matter.  He apparently got tipsy from the one glass and he remembers my father making a comment that he is still a "boy". 

My mother's registration form stating that she wed William Snowdon

And then the rest of Uncle Susumu's family came home led by the colorful and fun Aunt Kazuko.  She loves, loves to entertain and get her photo taken.  So as soon as she arrived, she adjusted her make up and asked me to take a photo of her in her favorite color - rose pink, with her adorable cat, Cinnamon.  Cinnamon in only 5 years old but just recently had to be hospitalized for kidney stones.  He is fine now and is so healthy.  Of course, Aunt Kazuko continued to talk about the Vet because he was very cute and thought that either Masako who is single or I should go meet him.  She loves to do match making and has been in that business for over 50 years!

Aunt Kazuko in rose pink with Cinnamon

For dinner, Masako and Tat-chan ( my cousin Katsuhiko's wife) made my favorite Oden.  We enjoyed around the table in the family room, with the TV going  just like old times.  I have to say, Osaka style Oden is the BEST!

Oden

Day Two:  Wednesday December 30, 2009

The next day, the 30th, we decided to go shopping.  Mi-chan who is my cousin Katsuhiko's 13 year old daughter wanted a Barbie bag.  And I wanted to buy her something for Otoshi-dama.  In Japan, New Years is where traditionally kids get money in a bag.  But for me, I wanted to get her a combination, Xmas and New Year's gift.  I also wanted to get something for Aunt Kazuko because she does not spend any money on herself.  She sews all her clothes and although her knees and legs are bad she will not spend over 2000 yen on shoes. 

So first thing we did is go to Kintetsu in Tennoji.  I remember going to this department store when I was a little girl with my mother.  We found the Barbie store but they did not have the bag.  We did find those some great walking shoes for Aunt Kazuko.  She liked them very much and was so excited that she actually started dancing through the store!

The obligatory photo before our shopping trip:   Aunt Kazuko, me, Uncle Susumu.  Uncle Susumu hates shopping so stayed home to clean.

Aunt Kazuko modeling her new shoes.  That's Mi-chan her granddaughter next to her.

The girls after a successful shoe shopping trip: From left to right:  Mi-chan, Aunt Kazuko, Tat-chan (Mi-chan's mom), me and Masako

After shopping at Kintestu, we went to Fugetsu which is a very famous place for Okonomi-yaki (Savory Japanese pancakes).  I had my favorite which was just shrimp with veggies.  Everyone else had the Modern-yaki which had noodles mixed in with the batter.

My favorite shrimp okonomiyaki from Fugetsu

Aunt Kazuko was getting tired from the walk, so Katsuhiko decided to head out with her to the Nikko Hotel in Shinsaibashi while we continue our shopping for a couple of hours. We then went to Takashimaya in Namba to check out the Barbie bag which after seeing it was a disappointment to Mi-chan.  But I found some very cute small Japanese porcelain dishes on sale so ended up buying them although I told myself I would not buy anything else.  We then started looking at necklaces that I wanted to get her for New Years.  We found some pretty ones in Takashimaya but decided to go to the department store across the street called Marui.  Well they had a sale on diamonds, so we found a very nice white gold necklace with a heart pendant dotted with small diamonds.  She loved it and I loved it so got it for her.  Uncle Susumu was so generous to my sister and I so I was very happy to reciprocating the generosity to Uncle Susumu's beloved granddaughter.  Our last stop was Uniqlo which is one of my favorite stores in the world.  I bought some Heat-Tek underwear and socks which were recommended by my good friend Monika and also a very nice cardigan and shell to wear on the plane.  Uniqlo has a store in NYC but that's it.  I hope they expand to LA because they have great inexpensive high quality casual clothes.   

Since we had time, we decided to walk to the Nikko Hotel in Shinsaibashi from Namba.  What a fun and nostalgic walk.  Masako-chan acted as a tour guide and pointed out the hi-lites.  I love the vibe and energy in Osaka.  It is close to Manhattan without the crime.  Its edgy, energetic and full of life. 

Namba Station

The old Kabuki House of Namba

Horai in Namba:  Very famous for the cha sui bo's.  LInes are very long.  One of the few famous places to eat in Japan that does not have a branch in Tokyo

The shopping arcades of Namba were packed!!

This guy was a symbol of Osaka and stood in front of a restaurant.  But it no longer exists.

The many famous alleys of the Namba area of Osaka.  It is really happening in this area.

Restaurant specializing in crab.  I've been to one of them a long time ago. 

Tako-yaki places everywhere!

Another famous landmark in Osaka, the Glico neon sign!  Glico is a famous caramel in Japan

We made it to the Nikko Hotel where we met up with Katsuhiko and Aunt Kazuko.  We had an early buffet dinner there where for a buffet, it was fabulous including all you drink wine, beer, sake or shochu.  They even had a tempura bar!  Mi-chan went nuts over the dessert bar where she attempted to have a taste of everything but could only do about 1/2 of what was available.  What a great day!  Tomorrow I go visit my Uncle Hiroshi's in Shinge.  Can't wait.

Aunt Kazuko and Mi-chan at the Nikko Hotel in Shinsaibashi which was beautifully decorated for New Year's

The girls enjoying the buffet dinner.  As you might have figured out by now, Katsuhiko is camera shy.

Day 3:  New Year's Eve, Thursday

The day started early with a lot of hustle and bustle in the house.  Aunt Kazuko got up early to make her famous chirashi sushi for dinner.  Everyone else was either cleaning or prepping for the New Eve feast we were to have.  But first, Katsuhiko, Mi-chan, Masako and I had to get ready to go the onsen (hot spring resort) to meet Uncle HIroshi, his daughter-in law and granddaughter Miki-chan. 

So off we went in Katsuhiko's car in an unusually cold and blustery day.  But on the way, we decided to stop to see Aunt Takako.  I have not seen her since my mother's (her sister's) funeral.  Although the area around the neighborhood has changed, her house has not changed.  Her husband was the neighborhood milkman and one of the kindest person one can know.  He kept on asking me about Kimi-chan, my sister, as when she was little she ventured to their house on her own from our grandparents for some milk.  He wanted to know if she still drank a lot of milk! It was a very emotional re-union with the usual stoic Aunt Takako having to put sun glasses on as her eyes were filled with tears.  I'm am so grateful that I was given the opportunity to see them again.

We then continued the drive to the onsen. The onsen spa is located near the Kansai International Airport in a sprawling modern shopping area.  And it was huge.  The girls enjoyed the 2 different types on indoor onsens including one with a whirlpool and braved the cold and fierce winds and enjoyed the 3 outdoor onsens.  After enjoying them for about 2 hours, we met Uncle Hiroshi and Katsuhiko for lunch in the dining area.  Uncle Hiroshi treated us to a fabulous Japanese style lunch.  Afterwards, Uncle Hiroshi decided to talk another dip in the onsen and the girls except for me decided to go to the Hot Stone Spa, where one lies on hot stones and sweats bullets until you shrivel.  I've done it once and did not find it relaxing at all so I instead went for a fabulous reflexology treatment that lasted a good 30 minutes. 

It was then time to say goodbye which was bitter sweet as Uncle Hiroshi's health has not been good.  I am not sure I will see him again but I promised him that I will be in touch with his granddaughter Miki-chan and will advise/ help her as she decides what to do after college.  I gave him the special bottle of Kyoto sake as a present to which he genuinely looked very pleased and said our goodbyes.

When we got back, it was time to prep for New Year's Eve.  Tat-chan and Masako were busy making the dashi (fish stock) for the toshikoshi soba (yearend soba) while I kept Kazuko obachan company.  I also copied the photos I've taken so far onto a memory stick and gave it to Katsuhiko to make printouts.  Well, that was the highlight of Aunt Kazuko's day.  She loves photos and was so excited that she acted like a kid in a candy store!

It was then time for our New Year's Eve feast which consisted of Aunt Kazuko's chirashi sushi, Tat-chan's gyoza and the toshikoshi soba.  Delicious!  We enjoyed it while watching Kouhaku on NHK which is a year end singing show that is the most popular TV show in Japan.  I opened the bottle of Canadian Ice Wine that Monika gave me and when midnite struck, we toasted to the New Year - the Year of the Tiger!

Me with Aunt Takako and her husband

The Onsen Spa where I spent an early afternoon with my Uncle Hiroshi and Family

Our last picture before I leave for home:  My Uncle Hiroshi is in front.  From left to right:  Uncle Hiroshi's daughter in law, his granddaughter Miki-chan,  me and Mi-chan

Tat-chan slaving away in the kitchen.  She made most of the fabulous food during my stay at Uncle Susumu's house.

New Year's Eve Dinner:  Gyoza

New Year's Eve Dinner: Aunt Kazuko's chirashi sushi

New Year's Eve Dinner:  And toshikoshi soba for a long life!

New Year Day:   The Year of the Tiger

Again just like the morning of the 31st there was a lot of hustle and bustle early in the morning on New Year's Day.  Uncle Susumu got up early to do his own Hatsumode (first visit to the shrine) and Tat-chan was again in the kitchen.  I worked on my blog until Mi-chan came by and said that we had to leave around 830am to go to the Aunt Kazuko's "church".    Aunt Kazuko and her daughter Masako are believers of Konkyoko.  It is a Shinto sect.  Thus I put quotes around church as one thinks of Christianity when church is mentioned.  Shintoism is quite complicated to explain but suffice it to say it is the national religion of Japan and originated in Japan.   We went there to do our Hatsumode (first shrine visit) and to also ask the head priest to pray for our wishes.  Aunt Kazuko asked the head priest to pray for my health and success in business this year.  It was a very pleasant experience. 

Me and Mi-chan at the Konkyoko Church

Aunt Kazuko posing in front of the church

We then headed back to start the New Years Day festivities!  Tat-chan prepared a beautiful table and waiting for us at the table was Uncle Susumu.  We were to dig into the food immediately but we had to wait for Aunt Kazuko to change into her kimono as she was going to do two traditional Japanese dances for us.  It was quite a challenge getting her into the kimono where a 10 minute effort took about an hour.  Originally, we were to eat first but because she was uncomfortable in the kimono, she danced first, changed and then joined us for the festivities.  My Aunt Kazuko is so full of life and loves to entertain!  Her legs have weakened but I think I convinced her to continue dancing and to try and walk once a day so that she can continue to be healthy and live a very long time.

We ate around 11am and the sake, beer and champagne were flowing!

Uncle Susumu waiting to start the festivities. 

Osechi Ryori:  traditional Japanese New Year's assorted dish.  Aunt Kazuko ordered this from a famous restaurant, but in the past she and her mother spent 2-3 days cooking everything from scratch.

Ozoni:  Another traditional food for New Year's in Japan.  Rice cake in either a miso (Osaka style) or clear broth (Tokyo style).  Since Tat-chan is from Tokyo, we had it Tokyo style

Aunt Kazuko provided the entertainment.  She loves traditional Japanese dance and performed 2 dances for us.

After stuffing myself again, it was time for us to venture outside in the cold again.  This time, we decided to go to the Sumiyoshi Taisha, the major Shinto shrine to do Hatsumode.  But on the way, we stopped at the local Buddhist temple and enjoyed some sake and Amazake (thick rice wine). 

We took the street car to the shrine and although we expected crowds, we thought it would die down a bit as we were there in the afternoon.  Well, we were wrong.  It seemed all of Osaka was there!  It was not a very good atmosphere to do your praying but at least we did the Omikuji - which is a written Oracle.  Mine was OK so I kept mine but Masako's was bad so she tied it on a tree on the shrine grounds so the oracle will not come true. 

Stopping at the Tennoji Shrine and Buddhist temple.  It was bustling with people making their Hatsumode.

Aunt Kazuko with the guys serving the New Year's sake and Amazake at the Tennoji Temple

The streetcar we took to the Sumiyoshi Taisha

Family portrait at the entrance of Sumiyoshi Taisha

The crowds at Sumiyoshi taisha making their way to do the Hatsumode

Tying the oracle to a ropes on the grounds of the shrine so the bad oracle does not come true.

We gave up going in front of the shrine to say our prayers because of the crowds.

The famous bridge of Sumiyoshi Taisha filled with people.

We got back home around 3pm where I had to spend some time packing to get ready for the flight back home.  I then showed Aunt Kazuko all the photos I took which got her very excited.  She could not get over the fact that she could see the photos immediately on my PC.  But what really blew her mind was when Katsuhiko printed the photos for her.  She kept on insisting she pay for the film and we kept on telling her we are not using film.  I think I finally got through to her when I said my camera is a "computer" camera.  Anyhow, it was much fun looking through the photos I took during my stay. 

Tat-chan of course, was cooking again and for dinner we had a fabulous "nabe" 2 ways.  Nabe literally means "pot" but it is also a typical dish in Japan in the winter.  Basically its a "hot pot" where different kinds of foods are cooked in a broth on the table.  Tat-chan made a Kimchi Nabe(Korean Style) which was spicy and a Japanese style where the broth was flavored with fish stock and soy.  Both were delicious, especially after we had noodles cooked in the left over broth as a finale.  Uncle Susumu turned in early after a few beers as he was going to get up at 4am to make a pilgrimmage to a temple that is special to him.

I spent the rest of the evening helping Mi-chan with her English homework which was quite challenging and then called it a night.

Tat-chan's Nabe 2 ways:  Kimchi (spicy) and Japanese style (mild)

I thoroughly enjoyed our last meal together.

I have very mixed feelings leaving Japan especially after having a wonderful time with my family.  I get sad thinking I might not see some of them again but am grateful I was given the opportunity to spend New Year's with them and for the new beginnings where I had the opportunity to connect with the younger members of the family.  With technology like email, SNS's, we should be able to continue to stay in touch.  And I do hope Aunt Kazuko starts dancing again so that her legs get strong enough so that she can make the trip to California soon which is something she really wants to do.

Enjoying the Last Weekend in Japan at Kyoto and Nara

December 26-28, 2009

Kyoto and Nara, Japan

Cold but Sunny

After a hectic but fun Christmas which included packing and moving, I took off to Kyoto to reflect on the 3 years in Japan and to also visit Nara which is where Japan was founded.  Because this area of Japan is so beautiful and so rich in history, it is a perfect way to say goodbye to this wonderful country.  

I took the 810am Nozomi Shinkansen to Kyoto with my huge suitcase and promptly fell asleep until I reached Kyoto.  So much for trying to get a last glimpse of Mt. Fuji!  Maybe on my flight I will have a chance.  Anyhow, arrived at the Westin Miyako, rested a bit and then decided to go for a walk. 

I had no plans so just started wandering.  I've always wanted to do this in Kyoto as in every other visit I had a packed itinerary.  I ended up walking by the magnificent Nanzenji temple, through Maruyama Park and then took NeNe no Michi and somehow ended up at Kiyomizudera Temple. 

Nanzenji Neighborhood

I was hoping I could catch the fall leaves but most were gone.  Kyoto is magnificent during cherry blossom season and fall foliage season.

Maruyama Park:  I very nice elegant park

Just before the Kiyomizudera though I discovered a very quaint temple with a scary deity called the Yasaka Koshindo Temple.  The deity - Koshin-san likes good people. Devine favor is given to them but he abhors bad people.  He therefore, punishes bad people.  His wish, however, is that everybody will become a good person.  That is why he has an angry face so that humans will not have a wicked heart.  The temple is also decorated magnificently with Kukurizara.  Kukurizaru is a monkey which has its hands and feet tied together and cannot move.  The belief is that the monkey is very man-like but because it is an animal, it just does whatever it feels like.  The Kukurizaru is thus compared to the desire in man, and in order that the "desire" not come out, it is tied by Koshin.  The belief is that is you want one of the wishes granted by the monkey, you should get rid of one of your desires. To do this, you must put your desire in the monkey and Koshin will help you control it. And if you feel the "desire" wants to come out, you should put your hands together and pray to Koshin and recite the Buddhist sutra:  On Deiba Yakisya Banta Banta Kakakaka Sowaka.

The street to Kiyomizutera:  I ran into the 5 story Pagoda

 

Koshin:  He/She'll help you grant your wish as long as you give up on a desire

Kukurizaru

 

Hear No Evil, Say No Evil, See No Evil

After spending time in the quaint temple, I debated whether to visit Kiyozumedera or not as I've been there so many times.  Well, I decided to do it and ended up only spending about 10 minutes because of the crowds.  I noticed though many girls and some couples decked out in kimonos only to find out most were from Korea or China and that as part of the tour package, they dress you up so you can visit the famous temples of Kyoto in kimonos.  Funny and great marketing.

Kiyomizutera

I believe this is the Kanji the monk of Kiyomizudera thought accurately describes 2009 but I could be wrong.  Anyhow, lots of people were taking photos but no one could explain why it was displayed.

The Love Shrine of Kiyomizudera.  This is where lots of girls go to wish for a boyfriend or marriage. It is also where Las Vegas meets Buddhism.

2 Korean tourists dressed in kimonos while visiting the World Heritage Site temples of Kyoto

I then walked home and called it a day although it was only about 5pm.  I was just so tired from the move and basically, just enjoyed the bottle of 2005 Chateau Gloria St. Julien that I brought and read a book which I have not done in ages.

Mmmm. Heaven..

The next day, I got up early to go to Nara.  Nara is a fascinating place and one can spend two full days here and not get enough.  Again, I decided that less is more, and basically just decided to wander.

Many people visiting Japan are not familiar with Nara.  Nara was the eastern endpoint of the Silk Road.  As such, it was a place where various cultures Asia intermingled with the indigenous culture, giving rise to something new and transforming Yamato into Japan in the process.  It is where Buddhism, Chinese characters and the concept of a nation state was formed.  Japan's first capital of the Heijo-kyo was founded here.   In addition, through the compilation of the Kojiki (Japan's oldest historical record) and the Manyoshu (Japan's oldest collection of poetry), the Japanese language was developed.  So historians believe it is in the Nara basin, where both the country of Japan and the Japanese language was born.

As soon as I got off the train, I was greeted by the famous deer of Nara.  Only in Nara do you see deer or any wildlife besides birds roam a major city.  However, it seems, all of the antlers have been chopped off.  Not sure if this is good for the deer or not.  Anyhow, most are used to people and cannot wait to be fed. 

The deer that greeted me when I just arrived in Nara.

I made my way to the great Todai-ji.  It was founded by Emperor Shomu to enshrine the Great Image of Buddha and as the General Head-temple of all provincial temples in Japan.  It was completed in 752 but unfortunately burned down twice and was lastly rebuilt in 1692 and scaled down to 2/3 of the original size.  However, it is still the largest wooden building in the world and is just amazing.  In the old days, the Buddhist temples were centers of education, medicine and even the military.  At Todai-ji, there still is a hospital that caters to the unfortunate.  It is good to know that Buddhism is still alive in a country where majority of the people as Richard Cohen from NYtimes says is "rich, bored, and gloomy".  It seems that if the people embrace the core values the country was founded on instead of searching for the next "otaku" thing to get excited about, the happier the country will be. Anyways, I digress.

I don't know what kind of fruit trees these are (looks like persimmon but not sure) but they were all over Nara.

The Main Gate of Todai-ji

The Magnificent Todai-ji:  Largest wooden structure in the world.

This guy sits in front of Todai-ji and is Binzuru.  He is said to have supernatural powers.  It is said that if you rub the area of Binzuru that ails you and then rub the corresponding part of your own body, you will be cured.

The Great Buddha of Nara

While visiting Todai-ji and the Great Buddha, a monk was reciting sutras in front of the Great Buddha.

After the Todai-ji, I walked around the grounds and visited the Nigatsu-do Hall where the famous water and fire festival is held every March and also visited the Hokke-do which is the oldest structure at Todai-ji.  I was not allowed to take photos inside the Hokke-do but wow, what magnificent images of the different bodhisatvas.  The main one is the Goddess of Compassion.  It is must see in Nara.  I would also like to see the famous water and fire festival in March if I can. 

Nigatsu-do Hall

You've got to climb lots of stairs to get to the hall.

The balcony of Nigetsu-do Hall

I then walked along the quiet path and visited the Kasuga Taisha Shrine that was under construction.  It is believed to have been founded in the 8th century and is known for the Kasuga architecture style.  The grounds are amazing and surrounded by hanging bronze lanterns and what seems thousands of stone lanterns. 

While walking the ground of Kasuga Taisha Shrine, a buck howled and then all the deer gathered in one place.  The buck was hissing.  Not sure what was going on but one baby deer decided to feed while waiting.

The Kasuga Taisha Shinto Shrine. 

Lanterns Everywhere

After thoroughly enjoying the visit, I followed the Sasayakino-Komichi path and somehow found my way to Nara-Michi - the hustle and bustle shopping district of Nara since the olden times.  I really wanted to go to the Heijo Palace as it will be celebrating the 1300 year anniversary next year. And this is where Japan was founded.  After stopping at the tourist office to find out the most efficient way to get there - which is by taxi by the way.  I caught a cab and headed towards the palace.  I could not understand why the cab driver was discouraging me to go there and once I arrived and he took off, I found out why.  Everything was closed in preparation for next year's celebration.  Also, almost all of the palace in gone.  All that exists are the main gate and audience hall.  However, the palace is surrounded with ancient burial grounds.  I think it is the only place in Japan where the ancient burial grounds are protected and are available for people to visit.  The major disappointment, however, was the railroad tracks that go through the middle of the palace site.  Really, what were they thinking!

The Gate of the Heijo Palace

The View of the Audience Hall from the Gate.  The grounds of the palace is huge.  But there is a railroad track that runs right in the middle.

Remains of the palace buildings.

The train that runs through the grounds.

Ancient Burial grounds.

The camellia trees dotting the grounds were interesting as they were in full bloom but no leaves!

Another view of the palace grounds from the museum that was also closed due to renovation.

It was late afternoon after I walked the large grounds of the palace site so went to the nearest station and took the train back to Kyoto.  All in all is was a great day and if I have a chance to visit Japan again,  Nara will gain be on the top of my list.

The next day in Kyoto, I again decided to wander although I've concluded I had to buy a small suitcase.  This means I'll be going home with 4 suitcases (2 very huge ones), one backpack and my camera bag.  How I'm ever going to manage is beyond me especially with the new security measures due to the crazy guy who tried to blow up a Delta Airlines flight from Amsterdam during the holidays with homemade explosives.

So while walking Sanjo Street I accidentally ran into the famous Nishiki market.  Wow, it was busy for a Monday.  Then I realized, all the ladies were shopping to get ready for New Years.  New Year's Day is a very important holiday in Japan.  The shopping for food started on the 28th, and the 29th, 30th is used for in-depth cleaining while the 31st is the day for cooking and getting ready for the New Year.  Ladies half my size lengthwise and widthwise where pushing, shoving and bargaining for the best deal.  Wild scene but everything in the market looked fabulous.

Entering the Nishiki Market

The gourmet pickle lady

Look at these gorgeous carrots.  They are so perfect it looks fake.

Rice Cakes:  Rice cakes are a traditional food for New Year's Day in Japan.

The candy store

A stall that sold the traditional New Year's Day Decorations

 

Kamaboko:  Japanese fish cake that my nephews and I love

Grilled Fish

I love grilled fish.  They were also selling pieces of Hamo tempura style and kushi-age style.  Hamo is very well known in the Kansai (Osaka and Kyoto) region and is similar to pike eel.  It is very very good.  I had one stick of the tempura style (deep fried in a flour batter) and one kushi-age style (deep friend with breadcrumbs).  Delicious!

Chestnut Store

 

Vegetable store with already cut veggies.  Beautiful.  I also notices in most stores the prices are all in Kanji including the numbers. The sign below says 120yen.

Pickles!

Japanese style antipasto

I have no idea what this is but all the vegetable stores had it and people were buying them in bulks.

And then as I walked out of Nishiki market looking for a suitcase store a Maiko dressed in "casual" clothes walked by me!

 

I could definitely live in Kyoto.  Kyoto and the surrounding areas represent the Japan that I love.  Rich in culture and tradition. I really am going to miss it.

Christmas in Tokyo 2009

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, 2009

Tokyo, Japan

Clear and Perfect

This year is the first year since moving to Japan in 2007, that I am spending Christmas in Tokyo.  And it is the first year since my 14 year old nephew Billy was born that I am not spending it with him and his younger brother Jackson.  I didn't plan it that way but it just happened that way as I had to move by the end of the year.  And since it has been over 30 years since I spent New Years with my relatives in Osaka, I decided to spend New Years with them which is a very special holiday for the Japanese.

So what did I do on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day?  Well, on Christmas Eve, the movers came to my house to pack!  So I was up early, getting ready for the move.  It lasted from 9am to around 3pm.  However, shockingly, I had everything pretty much well organized so there was not much to do during the packing, etc.  So I was able to work on the never ending paper work, order an iphone for the States and even go out for lunch.  I decided to go to Kyutoku Udon Restaurant in Roppongi Hills because they have my favorite type of udon called Inaniwa udon.  It is a special udon from the Akita region of Japan and has a chewier bite than typical udon.  Since I do not know of an Inaniwa udon restaurant in LA, I dedided to splurge and had there special lunch for the day.  Yum!  I'm going to have my friends from Japan bring me some Inaniwa udon when they come visit me in Malibu. 

Once the packing was done, I had to sign tons of papers and then cleaned up the apartment a bit.  I couldn't believe how many bottles of cleaning supplies I had!  Fortunately, Mary agreed to accept them and pick them up in the morning.  It was kind of sad to see the empty apartment.  But fortunately, Monika let me stay at her apartment for 2 nites during the move and keep her kitties company.  It's amazing what cats or dogs can do when one is feeling sad or depressed.  One of Monika's kitties - Tora-chan who is still a kitten, kept me busy and took very good care of me. 

For Xmas eve evening, I met my client for a a glass of wine and then was going to church.  But I learned that in Japan, eating Kentucky Fried Chicken for Xmas is a "tradition".  I never heard of this until a friend of mine told me.  I could not believe it.  Apparently, it started about 15 years ago.  Most Japanese homes don't have an oven big enough for a turkey, so chicken was the way to go.  But given Japan is a country of convenience, KFC came up with an idea of marketing KFC for X'mas (sort of like DeBeers making people believe diamond rings are for engagement).  Unbelievable.  It is a huge business! One has to place the order months in advance.   Anyhow, just for fun, I decided to see if I can get an individual serving as when in Rome do as the Roman's do!  But, the lines were extremely long, and once you get the order in, you have to wait for over an hour for the chicken.  So instead, I got 1/2 roasted chicken from Kinokuniya with rice balls. 

December 24, 2009:  Moving Day.  Started at 9am finished around 3pm.

 

My lunch break at Kyutoku.  The special started with Mozuku (pickled seaweed), tempura, fried fish and rice balls.

Then came the Inaniwa Udon

Followed by warabi mochi made by the restaurant (sweetened rice cake with chestnuts)

After the packing, cleaning and having a drink with one of my fav clients, I braved the subway during rush hour to buy some KFC (I will NOT miss the packed metros of Japan!)

But the lines were too long and once you place the order it is over an hour wait for the chicken.

So instead, I had Roast Chicken Japanese style with Onigiri, a glass of wine and and after dinner drink of Canadian Ice Wine

I woke up early on Christmas Day as I had to prep the apartment for the "inspection".  But woke up very early as one of my friends offered to take me to Tsukiji, see the tuna auction and have tuna sushi at an exclusive restaurant.  So I was up at 330am to make the visit to Tsukiji.  I had my fill of tuna for the month including Oma tuna which is from Japan. The tuna I had was definitely the best tuna I've ever had. I made it back to my apartment in time for a shower, get dressed and give Mary my cleaning supplies.  Although I've only known her for a few months, I know we will always be good friends.

I then had to prepare myself for the "inspection".I heard many horror stories of the "inspection".  I was warned that I might have to pay out of my pocket over 10000 dollars to get the carpet replaced.  So I was prepared.  Well it went very smoothly.  No problems what so ever, so nothing comes out of my pocket!  Whew..  I thanked them very much for making my stay in Japan enjoyable and especially thanked the concierge staff as without them, my stay in Japan would definitely have been more difficult.  

Once that was done, I went to Ginza to do some errands including closing my Citibank account.  But I still was thinking of the sushi I had for breakfast so decided to splurge and also have sushi at the exclusive Kyubei in Ginza.  After reaching a sufficient effeciency, I  then got ready to celebrate X'mas and Marian and David's.

And what a fantastic X'mas party. I was finally able to relax and enjoy the holidays.  Their house was decorated beautifully with Christmas decorations, and met new and very cool people.  Food was fabulous especially the trifle!  I love trifle and have not had it in years!!  Wow, a very real Christmas in Tokyo.  I am so blessed to have met and made special friends like David and Marian.  I thought I'd be a bit sad during my X'mas alone in Tokyo but I ended up having a fabulous and memorable one because of them.  I'm going to miss them!

I was greeted by Annabelle, the shy one, X'mas morning.  I miss Skipper and Yuki-chan very much but taking care of Annabelle and Tora-chan helped a lot.

Tora-chan was ready to play at 330am on X'mas Day!

I passed the inspection with flying colors and said goodbye to Homat Viscount 2106!

 

While doing errands in Ginza on X'mas day, I noticed the X'mas decorations disappearing and New Year's decorations appearing.  Below the mean where making rice cakes the traditional way.

And the lines for "nengajo"  New Year's post cards were very very long.

Marian welcoming me to X'mas dinner.

We celebrated and adopted the Devine's X'mas tradition where the women wear tiara's.  I'm wearing mine back to the US.

The whole dinner was elegant, fun and full of love - a very special X'mas in Tokyo.

Christmas pudding flambee!

My favorite trifle!

Me, Marian and David,  I hope to have them at my place in Malibu soon.

Celebrating New Friendships

Week before Christmas, 2009

Tokyo, Japan

Cold, Winter Weather

I do not like saying "goodbye".  I also don't believe in it as it makes me very sad.  So when it came time for my "sobetsu-kai" or "farewell dinner", I psyched myself into believing it was a party to celebrate new friendships that will continue despite me moving back to the US.  It still was emotional and there were times I was very sad but I kept on reminding myself it is a celebration of new friendships. 

I had two work related "sobetsu-kai's" to go to and one with my pilates teacher and now good friend Yasuko-san.   

The first one was organized by one of my new BFF, Ohkawa-san.  It was held in an Italian restaurant in Shibuya and was attended by my manager in Japan and the key people who helped me during my stay in Japan.  It was a lot of fun where we reminisced some highlights of my 3 years stay including the Yakushima trip, company outings, etc.  Everyone gave me a very touching and kind farewell speech which caused me to totally forget what I had planned on saying.  I am sure going to miss them all and especially Ohkawa-san as she went out of her way when I arrived in Tokyo to help me and welcome me to the team. As a gift, they gave me a gorgeous photo frame from Mikimoto dotted with Mikimoto pearls.  I will put a photo of us taken during the party in the frame.

My New Friends for Life

My manager in Japan.  Not only is he one of the most brilliant people I know but he has a heart of gold!  And he lived in OC!!

The next one was not really a Sobetsu-kai but something I wanted to do for my pilates teacher and new BFF, Yasuko-san.  I had so much fun taking pilates from her and also enjoyed our conversations very much.  We will definitely stay in touch and I hope she comes visit me soon.  She speaks perfect English and can't wait to introduce her to Julie, my US pilates instructor.  I was fortunate to get a reservation at Union Square Tokyo.  I say fortunate because what seems like millions of people were visiting Tokyo Midtown to see the Christmas illuminations.  It seems that business is so slow in the stores, that they went all out for Christmas to lure customers.  Sadly, the stores were still emply!  Anyhow, that did not stop us from having fabulous meal with good wine.  The ever thoughtful Yasuko-san gave me a beautiful leather business card holder and an exquisite necklace from a Japanese designer.  Luv it!  Can't wait to show my friends in the States.

Christmas lights at Tokyo Midtown.

 

Me and Yasuko-san at Tokyo Union Square.  Check out the necklace.  She gave it to me!

Yasuko-san and Me with the friendliest and most conscientious restaurant crew in the world.

And then the last Sobetsu-kai was with my immediate team.  Yataki-san, who is also now a BFF of mine, arranged it for the team.  She asked me what I felt like eating and I said Oden.  Oden is one of my favorite foods in Japan.  Although they sell the ingredients in LA so I can make it at home, there is no Oden-ya or Oden restaurant.  It is typical "street food" in Japan during the winter months and even the conbini's (convenient stores) sell it during the winter months.  Basically, its tofu, veggies and fish cake cooked in a broth for a very long time.  You eat it with hot mustard.  So we had it at a famous Tokyo style Oden restaurant in the bustling Shinbashi area.  

Shinbashi was bustling with people ready to party.  As it was Dec. 22, the day before the Emperor's B-day holiday, it was the most popular day to have a "Bonen-kai" or Year End Party for companies.

Look at the number of people trying to reserve a Karaoke booth!

 

I was able to find the Oden-ya pretty easily.  It was a very traditional Oden-ya where we had a tatami room all to ourselves.  We started with a toast (me with iced Oolong tea, everyone else Beer) and then the food started flowing.

The first dish was a snapper dish.  It was almost like an aspic but very very good.

Second dish was braised scallops

Then came some very fresh sashimi

And then the ebi shinjo (shrimp fritters).  My mother used to make us this for New Year's and my sister and I love it!

And then came the Oden.  By this time, the beverage of choice was shochu - Japanese Vodka.

And then the speeches started but first, I was presented a gift from the team:  A beautiful cloisonne bookmark and a fancy version of the erasable pens that were invented in Japan.

"Mr. Stamina":  This guy could go all night working, drinking, and partying with always a big smile on his face.  Representing the team, he presented me with the very thoughtful gift.

Then the speeches started.  All were funny and very touching. 

"The Always Smiling Guy" :  We first met over a conference call.  He recalled that call as he was struggling with the English.  It was a pretty funny way to meet.

"The Quiet One".  Next year he needs to participate in the global conf calls and speak English!

"The Gentleman".  I will continue to work closely with him on his accounts

"The Organizer":  She was one of my assistants in Japan and without her I would have not survived.

"Ms. OC":  She is the assistant to my manager and also lived in OC!

"The Young Gun":  Getting into rock climbing and has a bright future in front of him.

"The Genius":  One of the smartest technical guys I've ever met.

"The Consultant":  Lots of pressure will be on him next year but I'm sure he'll handle it with ease.

"The Sailor": He claims he can't speak English but I still don't believe it, especially since he is an avid sailor and wants to sail around the world.

"The Energizer Bunny":  actually she puts the energizer bunny to shame.  A very intelligent woman with a big heart and unlimited energy.

 

I am going to very much miss the daily interaction with them.  However, we will continue to work together and stay in touch on a frequent basis.  A toast to New Life Long Friends!

An Early Christmas Dinner with Family

Saturday December 12, 2009

Akasaka and Ometesando, Tokyo

Cold but Clear Day

Call me crazy but I decided to have my cousins and their kids to my house for an early Christmas supper the day after the wine party I hosted for the team..  They never have had a turkey before, so I decided to make a traditional turkey supper for them.  Because the wine party ended around 3am and the family Christmas dinner was starting at 1pm,  I had a VERY difficult time getting up at 6am to start cooking.  But adrenaline kicked in and I made turkey with chestnut stuffing, mashed potatoes, green bean casserole and hors oeuvres of cheese, olives, cold cuts and marinated tomatoes.  Masako spent the night with me and helped out but we were both quite tired.  However, once everyone showed up, I got a second wind and it was time to party.  My cousins and the kids were amazed at the size of the turkey.  We had a great time eating and catching up.  They loved the turkey and stuffing.  Wine and champagne were flowing and the kids ate a lot!  Dessert was cake from a famous bakery in Shinagawa. 

After stuffing ourselves, we met my friends Mary, Monika, Carl and Michael to venture to Omotesando to go see the Christmas Illumination.  It was the first time in a long time that Omotesando was lit up for Christmas.  Omotesando is a trendy shopping street just minutes from the wild and crazy Harajuku.  Unfortunately, half of Tokyo seemed to have the same idea on this beautiful Saturday night so the streets were packed with police directing the traffic.  We managed to have a good time though and laughed that it was a real Tokyo experience - that is, admiring the Christmas lights with millions of other people.   

The 15 pound Turkey I roasted.  I used Martha Stewart's recipe which is the Best!  I also made her Chestnut Stuffing which is always popular.

Cake from the famous Bakery in Shinagawa

Christmas Illuminations at Omotesando

 

 

 

Even the famous Toy Store Kiddyland was illuminated.

But the crowds were too much. 

Me with BFFs Mary and Monika, and my cousins' kids.